Evolution of waves and currents over a submerged laboratory shoal

The vertically-integrated effect of interaction between waves and wave-induced currents on wave transformation over a submerged elliptic shoal was investigated based on numerical simulations of the Vincent and Briggs experiment [Vincent, C.L., Briggs, M.J., 1989. Refraction- diffraction of irregular waves over a mound. Journal of Waterway, Port, Coastal and Ocean Engineering, 115(2), pp. 269–284.]. The numerical simulations were performed using two numerical wave-current model systems: one, a combination of the wave model SWAN and the current model SHORECIRC, and the other, a combination of the wave model REF/DIF and the same current model. A time-dependent, phase-resolving wave and current model, FUNWAVE, was also utilized to simulate the experiment. In the simulations, the developed wave-induced currents defocused waves behind the shoal and brought on a wave shadow zone that showed relatively low wave height distributions. For the breaking case of monochromatic waves, the wave heights computed using FUNWAVE showed good agreement with the measurements and the resulting wave-induced currents showed a jet-like velocity distribution in transverse direction. And the computed results of the two model combinations agreed better with the measurements than the computed results obtained by neglecting wave-current interaction. However, it was found that for the case in which transverse interference pattern caused by refracted waves was strong, REF/DIF-SHORECIRC did not correctly evaluate radiation stresses, the gradients of which generate wave-induced currents. SWAN-SHORECIRC, which cannot deal with the interference patterns, predicted a jet-like wave-induced current. For breaking random wave cases, the computed results of the two model combinations and FUNWAVE agreed well with the measurements. The agreements indicate that it is necessary to take into account the effect of wave-induced current on wave refraction when wave breaking occurs over a submerged shoal.     

A modified scaled boundary finite-element method for problems with parallel side-faces. Part II. Application and evaluation

The modified scaled boundary finite-element method (SBFEM), keeping the advantages of the original SBFEM, eliminates the restriction of the scaling center location so that this approach can solve two-dimensional problems with parallel side-faces. In this paper, the modified SBFEM is applied to solutions of two types of problems—wave diffraction by a single and twin surface rectangular obstacles and wave radiation induced by an oscillating mono-hull and twin-hull structures in a finite depth of water. For wave diffraction problems, numerical results agree extremely well with the analytic solution for the single obstacle case and other numerical results of a different approach for the twin obstacle case. For wave radiation problems, the particular solutions to the scaled boundary finite-element equation are presented for cases of heave, sway and roll motions. The added mass and damping coefficients for heave, sway and roll motions of a two-dimensional rectangular container are computed and the numerical results are compared with those from independent analytical solution and numerical solution using the boundary element method (BEM). It is found that the SBFEM method achieves equivalent accuracy to the conventional BEM with only a few degrees of freedom. In the last example, wave radiation by a two-dimensional twin-hull structure is analyzed. Comparisons of the results with those obtained using conventional Green's function method (GFM) demonstrate that the method presented in this paper is free from the irregular frequency problems.     

Numerical Simulation of Breaking Wave Based on Higher-Order Mild Slope Equation

The "surface roller" to simulate wave energy dissipation of wave breaking is introduced into the random wave model based on approximate parabolic mild slope equation in this paper to simulate the random wave transportation including diffraction, refraction and breaking in nearshore areas. The roller breaking random wave higher-order approximate parabolic equation model has been verified by the existing experimental data for a plane slope beach and a circular shoal, and the numerical results of random wave breaking model agree with the experimental data very well. This model can be applied to calculate random wave propagation from deep to shallow water in large areas near the shore over natu ral topography.     

A numerical modeling of hydrodynamic characteristics of various planing hull forms

A numerical algorithm based on the boundary element method (BEM) is presented for predicting the hydrodynamic characteristics of the various planing hull forms. The boundary integral equation is derived using Green's theorem on the wetted body surface and the free surface. The ventilation function at the transom is estimated with Doctor's empirical formula. This function is defined as the transom zone free surface boundary condition. The combined boundary integral equation and modified free surface boundary condition are simultaneously solved to determine the dipole on the wetted hull surface and the source on the free surface. The method is applied to investigate three examples of planing hulls, which include flat-plates, as well as wedge-shaped and variable deadrise planing hulls. Their hydrodynamic characteristics are calculated for different speeds. Computational results are presented and compared with existing theories and experiments. On the whole, the agreement between the present method and the selected experimental and numerical data is satisfactory.     

Wave refraction–diffraction effect in the wind wave model WWM

Based on the extended mild-slope equation, the wind wave model (WWM; Hsu et al., 2005) is modified to account for wave refraction, diffraction and reflection for wind waves propagating over a rapidly varying seabed in the presence of current. The combined effect of the higher-order bottom effect terms is incorporated into the wave action balance equation through the correction of the wavenumber and propagation velocities using a refraction–diffraction correction parameter. The relative importance of additional terms including higher-order bottom components, the wave–bottom interaction source term and wave–current interaction that influence the refraction–diffraction correction parameter is discussed. The applicability of the proposed model to calculate a wave transformation over an elliptic shoal, a series of parallel submerged breakwater induced Bragg scattering and wave–current interaction is evaluated. Numerical results show that the present model provides better predictions of the wave amplitude as compared with the phase-decoupled model of Holthuijsen et al. (2003).     

波浪在三维圆形岛地形上的绕射研究

波浪在传播过程中遇到岛屿就会发生绕射。本文使用混合元方法对修正型缓坡方程进行了数值求解,并与KUO et al的解析解进行了比较验证。在此基础上研究了工程尺度背景下,波浪在三维圆形岛地形上的绕射,计算了不同入射波浪周期、浅滩形状参数和岛屿尺寸情况下,沿波浪传播方向断面上和岛屿岸线上的相对波高大小。计算结果表明：随着入射波周期的减小、浅滩形状参数的增大和岛屿尺寸的减小,圆形岛迎浪侧的相对波高振荡幅度、圆形岛背浪侧的相对波高大小以及岛屿岸线上的相对波高振幅和大小均随之增大。不同情况下,岛屿岸线上的相对波高最大值大多数发生在迎浪点,个别发生在迎浪点两侧20°~25°处;最小值发生在背浪点两侧30°附近。     

On the parabolic equation method in internal wave propagation

A parabolic equation for the propagation of periodic internal waves over varying bottom topography is derived using the multiple-scale perturbation method. Some computational aspects of the numerical implementation are discussed. The results of numerical experiments on propagation of an incident plane wave over a circular-type shoal are presented in comparison with the analytical result, based on Born approximation.     

水下圆形浅滩附近波浪绕射的计算

采用波数矢量无旋和波能守恒方程对圆形浅滩附近水域波浪绕射进行了数值计算,计算模型中采用Ｂａｔｔｊｅｓ关系与波数矢量无旋,波能量守恒方程一起联合求解圆形浅滩附近水域波浪折射影响下的波浪要素。本文的数值计算模型对圆形浅滩水域波浪折射绕射现象的验证结果表明,计算所得结果与试验结果是吻合的,数学模型是可靠和合理的,具有实用价值。     

New Numerical Scheme for Simulation of Hyperbolic Mild-Slope Equation

The original hyperbolic mild-slope equation can effectively take into account the combined effects of wave shoaling, refraction, diffraction and reflection, but does not consider the nonlinear effect of waves, and the existing numerical schemes for it show some deficiencies. Based on the original hyperbolic mild-slope equation, a nonlinear dispersion relation is introduced in present paper to effectively take the nonlinear effect of waves into account and a new numerical scheme is proposed. The weakly nonlinear dispersion relation and the improved numerical scheme are applied to the simulation of wave transformation over an elliptic shoal. Numerical tests show that the improvement of the numerical scheme makes efficient the solution to the hyperbolic mild-slope equation. A comparison of numerical results with experimental data indicates that the results obtained by use of the new scheme are satisfactory.     

An extended time-dependent numerical model of the mild-slope equation with weakly nonlinear amplitude dispersion

In the present paper, by introducing the effective wave elevation, we transform the extended ellip- tic mild-slope equation with bottom friction, wave breaking and steep or rapidly varying bottom topography to the simplest time-dependent hyperbolic equation. Based on this equation and the empirical nonlinear amplitude dispersion relation proposed by Li et al. (2003), the numerical scheme is established. Error analysis by Taylor expansion method shows that the numerical stability of the present model succeeds the merits in Song et al. (2007)’s model because of the introduced dissipation terms. For the purpose of verifying its performance on wave nonlinearity, rapidly vary- ing topography and wave breaking, the present model is applied to study: (1) wave refraction and diffraction over a submerged elliptic shoal on a slope (Berkhoff et al., 1982); (2) Bragg reflection of monochromatic waves from the sinusoidal ripples (Davies and Heathershaw, 1985); (3) wave transformation near a shore attached breakwater (Watanabe and Maruyama, 1986). Comparisons of the numerical solutions with the experimental or theoretical ones or with those of other models (REF/DIF model and FUNWAVE model) show good results, which indicate that the present model is capable of giving favorably predictions of wave refraction, diffraction, reflection, shoaling, bottom friction, breaking energy dissipation and weak nonlinearity in the near shore zone.     

A method for second-order diffraction potential from an axisymmetric body

The paper provides a detailed analysis for the second-order diffraction of monochromatic waves. For the second-order potential on the free surface, the paper proposed a forward prediction method for computing the integration on the free surface. By this method we only need to run the infinity integration on the free surface directly for a few points; a one-step quadrature can then be applied successively outward from the body for potentials at other points. For wave diffraction from a body of revolution with a vertical axis, the paper derives a new integral equation, which can cancel the leading singularity in the derivative of ring Green's functions automatically. To obtain accurate results, different approaches are also used to deal with singularities in the ring Green's functions in the integration on both the body surface and free surface. The method has been implemented for bodies of revolution with vertical axes, but the theory is also available for arbitrary bodies.A numerical examination is made to validate the numerical code by comparing the second-order forces and moments on uniform and truncated cylinders and second-order diffraction potentials on the free surface with some published results. The comparison shows that the present results are in good agreement with those published. The method is also used to compute the second-order wave elevation around uniform and truncated cylinders.     

Numerical modeling of a wave energy converter based on U-shaped interior oscillating water column

The paper presents a concept of a wave energy converter and the numerical model to calculate the hydrodynamic responses in waves and the power produced by the power take off system. The system consists of an asymmetric floater with an interior U-tank partially filled with water and two lateral air chambers connected by a duct. The motion of the U-shaped oscillating water column, mainly induced by the rolling of the floater, forces the air through the duct where a Wells turbine is installed to absorb the wave energy.The wave-floater hydrodynamics is calculated with a Green's function panel method, while the oscillating water column motions hydro-mechanics are derived from the one-dimensional Euler's equation. The dynamics of the Wells turbine is realistically represented by one additional differential equation on the unknown air pressure fluctuation. This equation is derived assuming small amplitude motions of the water column and assuming the linear isentropic relation is valid for the air thermodynamics in the air chambers. The Wells turbine is characterized by a drastic drop of efficiency above a critical pressure value due to stalling on the blades. The effect of a by-pass valve to prevent stalling is introduced in the numerical model in a simplistic way. The numerical model is implemented and tested for a wave energy converter with a displacement of 1150 t, including 490 t for the interior water column, and an installed turbine with 2.3 m of diameter. An analysis of the influence of changing different design parameters on the system efficiency is also presented.     

Experimental verification of horizontal two-dimensional modified mild-slope equation model

In order to verify modified mild-slope equation models in a horizontal two-dimensional space, a hydraulic experiment is made for surface wave propagation over a circular shoal on which water depth varies substantially. A horizontal two-dimensional numerical model is also constructed based on the hyperbolic equations that have been developed from the modified mild-slope equation to account for the substantial depth variation. Comparison between experimental measurements and numerical results shows that the modified mild-slope equation model is capable of producing accurate results for wave propagation in a region where water depth varies substantially, while the conventional mild-slope equation model gives large errors as the mild-slope assumption is violated.     

Boundary element modeling of multidirectional random waves in a harbor with partially reflecting boundaries

A numerical model is presented for the prediction of the wave field due to the diffraction of directional random waves in a harbor of arbitrary shape with partially reflecting boundaries. The water depth is assumed uniform and the method is based upon the superposition of diffraction solutions for monochromatic waves obtained by a two-dimensional boundary integral equation approach. The incident wave conditions are specified using a discrete form of the Mitsuyasu directional spectrum. The present numerical model has been validated through comparisons with previous experimental data and theoretical results for both regular and random wave diffraction by offshore breakwaters and in harbors. Good agreement was obtained in all cases. Based on these comparisons it is concluded that the present numerical model is an accurate and efficient tool to predict the wave field inside a harbor or around a breakwater in many practical applications.     

Numerical simulation of wave transformation and runup incorporating porous media wave absorber and turbulence models

A numerical wave tank is first established using the Navier–Stokes equations and the VOF method assuming laminar flow. The standard k–ε, realizable k–ε and RNG k–ε turbulent models are then incorporated to the numerical tank. An effective numerical method for wave absorption utilizing the energy-dissipating property of porous media is also included. To validate the accuracy of the proposed models, the propagation of a solitary wave, where analytical solution is available for comparison, is first simulated. This is followed by the simulation of irregular wave runup on a composite seawall, wave propagation over submerged bars and wave refraction and diffraction over an elliptic shoal, where experimental data are available for comparison. All computed results agree well with either the analytical solution or the experimental data.     

Wave shoaling and diffraction in current over a mild-slope

The wave relative frequency in the coordinate system moving with current and the angle between the direction of wave propagation and that of current are computed based on the wave dispersion relation. The current field is computed by solving the depth averaged shallow water equations. The wave field is computed by solving the mildslope equation which has taken the current‘s effect into account. A numerical model is established using a finite element method for simulating the wave shoaling and diffraction in current over a mild-slope, and the numerical results are reasonable to compare with the experimental data.     

Analytic study to wave scattering by a general Homma island using the explicit modified mild-slope equation

In this paper, an exact analytic solution in terms of Taylor series to the explicit modified mild-slope equation (EMMSE) for wave scattering by a general Homma island is constructed and the convergence of the series solution is analyzed. To validate the new analytic solution, comparisons are made against the existing solutions including analytic solutions to both the long-wave equation and Helmholtz equation, approximate analytic solutions to the modified mild-slope equation, numerical solutions to the mild-slope equation and experimental solutions. Because of the use of the governing equation EMMSE together with mass-conserving matching conditions along the toe of the shoal, the present model is valid for not only waves in the whole spectrum from long waves to short waves but also bathymetries with the maximal seabed slope being as high as 4.27:1. Since the general Homma island is an extension of the original Homma island, the present solution can be very conveniently used to study the effects of bottom topography on combined refraction and diffraction. It is found that the larger the shoal size is, the more significant the wave amplification against the cylinder is.     

A parabolic equation extended to account for rapidly varying topography

In this paper, following the procedure outlined by Li (1994. An evolution equation for water waves. Coastal Engineering, 23, 227-242) and Hsu and Wen (2000. A study of using parabolic model to describe wave breaking and wide-angle wave incidence. Journal of the Chinese Institute of Engineers, 23(4), 515–527) and Hsu and Wen (2000) the extended refraction–diffraction equation is recasted into a time-dependent parabolic equation. This model, which includes higher-order bottom effect terms, is extended to account for a rapidly varying topography and wave energy dissipation in the surf zone. The importance of the higher-order bottom effect terms is examined in terms of the relative water depth. The present model was tested for wave reflection in a number of different environments, namely from a plane slope with different inclinations, from a patch of periodic ripples. The model was also tested for wave height distribution around a circular shoal and wave breaking on a barred beach. The comparison of predictions with other numerical models and experimental data show that the validity of the present model for describing wave propagation over a rapidly varying seabed is satisfactory.     

Hydrodynamics of a submerged hydrofoil advancing in waves

The hydrodynamic problem of a hydrofoil travelling at constant speed in water waves has been investigated through velocity potential theory. The boundary conditions on the free surface have been linearized, and the effects are accounted for through the Green function. The overall problem is decomposed into the steady forward speed problem and periodic wave radiation and diffraction problems. Each of these problems is solved using the boundary integral equation over the hydrofoil surface together with a vortex sheet behind the trailing edge. The body surface boundary condition is imposed on its mean position. As a result the steady potential will contribute a well-known m_j term to the body surface boundary condition on the radiation problem. The numerical difficulty in dealing with this term is effectively resolved through a difference method. The effects of the thickness on the wave radiation and diffraction are investigated. The applicability of various reciprocity relationships in this problem is discussed.     

Numerical simulations using momentum source wave-maker applied to RANS equation model

For Navier-Stokes equation model using the VOF scheme, Lin and Liu (Lin, P. and Liu, P.L.-F. (1999). Internal wave-maker for Navier-Stokes equations models. J. Waterw. Port Coast. Ocean Eng., 125 (4), 207–215.) developed an internal wave-maker method for which a mass source function of the continuity equation was used to generate target wave trains. Using this internal wave-maker method, various numerical experiments have been conducted without any problems due to waves reflected by a wave-maker. In this study, an internal wave-maker method using a momentum source function was proposed. Various numerical simulations in two and three dimensions were performed using the momentum source wave-maker applied to the RANS equation model in a CFD code, FLUENT. To verify their applicability in 2 dimensions, the computational results obtained using the momentum source wave-maker in a channel of constant depth were compared with the results obtained by using the mass source wave-maker and with the analytical solutions. And the results of the present numerical simulations of hydraulic experiments, which represent nonlinear waves on a submerged shoal and breaking waves on a plane beach, were compared with measurements. The comparisons showed good agreements between them. To see their applicability into 3-dimensional cases, the present results in a basin of constant depth were compared with the analytical solutions, and they agreed well with each other. In addition, vertical variation of longshore current was presented by using the 3-dimensional simulation results.