海南万宁大花角巨砾石海滩特征与成因

巨砾石是颗粒直径大于256 mm的沉积物.巨砾石海滩(Boulder beach)是一种少见的海岸类型,形成条件特殊,与砾石海滩(2～60 mm)沉积动力特征不同,是具有旅游价值和学术价值的资源.对海南万宁大花角巨砾石海滩的调查研究结果表明,海滩主要是由直径500～1000mm、磨圆、光滑的巨砾石排列而成的,剖面平滑,宽40m,高9 m,海滩坡度13°.与普陀岛的巨砾海滩相比,本海滩更为典型,海滩巨砾石磨圆更好、宽度更大、海滩低潮至高潮之间高度更大,海滩形态也更完好.它的形成与海岸岬湾地形、地质条件、高能波浪等有关.巨砾石磨圆极好、表面光滑,但是粒径比一般鹅卵石大1～2个数量级.巨砾石海滩与砾石滩在沉积特征和动力地貌特征不同,是不同类型的海滩.     

山东长岛砾石海滩侵蚀及修复

由于自然环境的变化和人类活动的加剧,海岸侵蚀的状况越发严重,近年来国际上砾石养滩作为一种新的海滩养护方法开始兴起,由于其粒径粗、孔隙度大,波浪下渗率较高,起到抵浪消浪的作用,从而形成稳定度较高的海滩,在海滩养护中有着重要的作用。2014年和2016年对山东长岛的砾石海滩做过2次实地调查,研究发现砾石海滩确存在侵蚀现象,滩面下蚀深度最高达到0.6m,海滩宽度也有变窄的趋势。因此,建议当地采用砾石养滩的方法进行海滩修复,根据当地状况并结合国外砾石养滩的案例可知,砾石抛填的位置应在高潮线以上,填充厚度至少应达到3~4m,粒径以2~50mm较好,将滩肩扩宽至30m海滩能够稳定一段时间。砾石海滩经修复后不仅能够防护海岸,也能够促进当地旅游业的发展,提升城市的品味。     

人工砾石海滩变化及输移率研究

在我国采用砾石海滩在某些强动力区域进行海滩养护是一种新的尝试,具有很好的适用性。以厦门天泉湾人工砾石滩为研究对象,对2015年至2016年间10条海滩剖面开展了5次周期性监测,通过综合分析,得出在人工砾石滩竣工完成后的一年时间内,滩肩外沿线、岸线及滩面底角的砂砾分界线大幅度后退,滩肩宽度变窄;滩肩外沿线明显隆起,形成滩肩脊线;滩面坡度变大,且上游侧海滩的滩面普遍比下游侧海滩的滩面陡,一年后,岸滩整体变化趋于稳定。针对砾石滩不断向西南方向运移的现状,采用Leo C.van Rijn输移率公式计算砾石滩年平均输移率,并通过测量断面法、体积变化量法对Leo C.van Rijn公式计算结果进行验证,得出砾石滩年平均输移率的范围约为1 015.66~2 392.5 m~3/a。     

海滩均衡剖面的概念及相关问题的讨论--以日照实测海滩剖面为例

海滩均衡剖面是海洋动力和海滩泥沙充分作用下的一个具有统计意义上的相对均衡的海滩形态。绝对意义上的、理想的均衡海滩剖面在自然界是难以找到的 ,而统计意义上的海滩均衡特征可以满足海岸变化和海滩过程研究需要。海滩均衡剖面的形态主要受控于国海滩泥沙的粒度特征 ,该剖面的形态指数是海滩泥沙沉降速率的函数 ,海滩粒度越粗 ,海滩坡度越陡。本文研究的日照海滩存在统计意义上的均衡剖面。由于海滩沉积物粒度具有明显的分带特征 ,海滩剖面不是一个理想的均一平面 ,而是由与海滩泥沙粒度相适应的两个均衡剖面组成。这两段海滩的表层粒径分别为 4.8Φ和 7.5Φ ,观测剖面的海滩形态指数分别为 0 .0 75和 0 .0 1 5,理论海滩形态指数分别为 0 .0 77和 0 .0 2 ,理论值和观测值有很好的一致性。     

基于数字图像的山东长山岛砾石海滩表层砾石形貌特征研究

天然砾石海滩作为一种高能环境下的海岸堆积体,因其粒径粗、孔隙度大等特征,是良好的海岸防护屏障。了解砾石海滩形成过程离不开砾石形貌这一重要参数,但要快速、准确获得大量砾石的定量参数比较困难。本文对山东北长山岛3个砾石海滩(九丈崖、月牙湾、长滩)、南长山岛的4个砾石海滩(仙境源、林海、长山尾和明珠广场)进行现场剖面测量并采集砾石样品及砾石图像,应用ImageJ软件对砾石进行原位无干扰数字图像测算,可以快速大量分析砾石粒径、磨圆度等形貌参数。结果显示:砾石的粒径范围为4～79 mm,主要集中在中砾,各海滩分选较好;其中,北长山岛海滩的砾石平均粒径略小于南长山岛,北长山岛九丈崖海滩的砾石平均粒径最大,南长山岛的仙境源海滩砾石平均粒径最小。向海方向从滩肩到高潮线平均粒径逐渐减小,但在水边线处增大。砾石磨圆度介于0.59～0.75之间,等级均为圆状,砾石海滩均已达到较成熟阶段;其中北长山岛的月牙湾海滩砾石磨圆最好,长滩海滩砾石的磨圆最差,由陆向海磨圆度值呈增大的趋势。形状比率范围介于1.36～1.77之间,与磨圆度呈明显负相关(R2=0.98),砾石由陆向海从长条状渐变为椭圆状。南、北长山岛的砾石海滩的砾石形貌受到物源、动力条件和人为活动的影响。研究区砾石海滩坡度范围为16%～35%,海滩坡度与沉积物粒径呈正相关。     

福建沿岸海滩—沙丘系统地貌变化特征及关系模式

通过2007年7月至2010年2月对福建沿岸25个主要沙丘岸段的调查,以及代表性海滩-沙丘地貌系统地形变化的重复观测,针对福建海岸海滩类型和前缘沙丘地貌组合,从海滩动力地貌特征、沙丘形态及其变化角度出发,分析了海滩-沙丘地貌体系的变化特征,并进一步探索海滩动力地貌与沙丘地貌及其变化之间的关系模式。结果为:(1)福建沿岸海滩-沙丘系统的地貌变化可以归纳为3种类型:①海滩稳定-沙丘变化型;②海滩侵蚀-沙丘稳定型;③海滩侵蚀-沙丘后退型。(2)福建沿岸海滩-沙丘系统的动力地貌关系可以归纳为6种基本模式,主要表现为完全耗散型、过渡型和低潮阶地型3种海滩地貌与沙丘规模和形态的对应关系,海滩的沉积状态与海滩-沙丘系统内部的相互作用,也在某种程度上决定了其动力地貌关系模式。     

海滩均衡剖面的概念及相关问题的讨论——以日照实测海滩剖面为例

海滩均衡剖面是海洋动力和海滩泥沙充分作用下的一个具有统计意义上的相对均衡的海滩形态，绝对意义上的、理想的均衡海滩剖面在自然界是难以找到的，而统计意义上的海滩均衡特征可以满足海岸变化和海滩过程研究需要，海滩均衡剖面的形态主要受控于国海滩泥沙的粒度特征，该剖面的形态指数是海滩泥沙沉降速率的函数，海滩粒度越粗，海滩坡度越陡，本文研究的日照海滩存在统计意义上的均衡剖面，由于海滩沉积物粒度具有明显的分带特征，海滩剖面不是一个理想的均一平面，而是由与海滩泥沙粒度相适应的两具均衡剖面组成，这两段海滩的表层粒径分别为4.8φ和7.5φ，观测剖面的海滩形态指数分别为0.075和0.015，理论海滩形态指数分别为0.077和0.02,理论值和观测值有很好的一致性。     

岬湾海滩剖面中长期变化特征及其控制因素——以青岛石老人海滩为例

了解海滩剖面变化可以更好地理解海滩动态过程。利用2007年5月~2014年12月近8 a青岛石老人海滩剖面的实测资料,计算剖面各段单宽体积变化量及后滨宽度,结合交叉小波和小波相干分析方法,探讨海滩剖面中长期淤蚀变化特征及其控制因素。结果表明,近8 a来海滩剖面表现为侵蚀状态,不同岸段侵蚀程度不同。剖面1岸段侵蚀明显,剖面2和剖面3岸段轻微侵蚀。剖面的变化过程可划分为平稳期、剧变期和微调期3个时期。各时期剖面的季节性变化较复杂,平稳期具冬蚀夏淤的交替变化特征,整体淤蚀量较小;剧变期剖面呈阶段性蚀退,变化幅度相对较大,微调期剖面可能仍处于剧变期的恢复阶段,季节性变化不明显。剧变期和微调期的小波交叉谱和相干谱分析显示,波浪和前滨单宽体积相干性较好,尤其当大于2 m的波高达到10%以上,海滩地形可以和波高变化产生同周期的变化。因此波高变化基本控制了剖面的季节变化。而海滩长周期变化主要受控于风暴潮作用及其漫长的恢复期,沿岸输沙和海平面变化则一定程度上导致了剖面长期侵蚀格局的形成。     

黄河三角洲飞雁滩动力特征与地形剖面塑造

飞雁滩是1964年1月至1976年5月黄河尾闾由刁口流路入海形成的黄河亚三角洲。自1976年黄河改走清水沟入海后,飞雁滩岸滩发生强烈侵蚀后退。以20世纪70年代开始的地形固定断面观测资料、2004年4月现场水文泥沙及沉积物取样资料为基础,地形剖面后退距离作为统计参数,并根据实测资料计算了潮流和波浪底摩阻流速的横向分布,分布和沉积物结构方面解释了飞雁滩典型剖面的变化特征。30a来飞雁滩岸滩地形剖面经历了"快速后退侵蚀-慢速调整-波动触发"的变化过程,这也正是其三角洲前缘侵蚀逐渐消失过程。沉积物抗冲性强弱是剖面蚀退速度变化的主要原因,水动力条件的变化改变了不同阶段的地形剖面最大蚀退量水深范围与闭合深度。风暴潮仍是今后海滩地形剖面演变的触发动力。     

潍坊人工沙滩海滩剖面演变特征及应用经验正交函数分析

对潍坊人工沙滩二期工程竣工后海滩实测地形剖面进行研究,应用经验正交函数(EOF)提取海滩2013年5月至2015年11月6次剖面监测数据中的前3个模态的空间特征函数和时间特征函数,分析竣工养护后海滩剖面的时空演变特征及海滩的平面变化特征。第一特征函数表示竣工后海滩的总体冲淤变化,受到东西两侧丁坝加长和中间T型坝修建的影响,剖面的侵蚀程度较一期工程明显减小;第二特征函数表示受地形和水动力作用影响,前滨带出现滩肩剖面和沙坝剖面的相互转化;第三特征函数反映风暴潮、人为因素等偶然因素的影响;从平面特征来看,人工沙滩中部、东部较西部侵蚀严重。可见,二期工程建设起到了优化的目的,大大改善了人工沙滩的侵蚀,但仍需要持续有规律的对海滩进行监测,进一步深化对人工养护沙滩建设和维护的认识。     

砾石海滩的沉积和形态动力特征

天然砾石海滩的物质主要来源于河流输入，海岸侵蚀，海底侵蚀，沿岸输送，人类活动及冰川搬运等，砾石海滩在地貌上表现出明显的分带性，海滩坡度的大小随物源和动力条件发生变化，砾石的磨蚀速率与岩性及周围沉积物粒度组成有关，人工砾石海滩建设可借鉴天然砾石海滩的形成和演化过程，合理地设计物质组成，砾石形状和大小，以便能更快地使人工海滩达到平衡状态并维持海滩的稳定性。     

Application of the parabolic bay shape equation to sand and gravel beaches on Mediterranean coasts

The equation most commonly used to describe the bay planform was proposed by Hsu and Evans (1989) and it was obtained through empirical analysis of sand beach planforms.In the last decade interest in gravel sediments increased owing to their greater stability on beaches, compared with sand sediments. Due to the differences between the morphodynamics of sand and gravel beaches, which is strictly influenced by their different hydraulic characteristics, it was necessary to create a predictive instrument for this beach type as well.Therefore, in this study the standard Hsu and Evans equation (1989) was modified in order to make it applicable not only to sand beaches but also to gravel beaches. The shoreline was computed according to a parabolic model in polar coordinates whose coefficients are considered linearly dependent on the wave direction and related to the beach type. The estimation of the free parameters of the model was performed according to a statistical analysis of a shorelines data set of Mediterranean sand and gravel embayed beaches.     

Variations in grain‐size and sorting on two kaikoura beaches

Two exposed, high‐energy beaches on the Kaikoura coast of New Zealand are composed of sand and gravel derived from a greywacke terrain. Both beaches can be classified as mixed beaches although the sediment varies from dominantly gravel at the ends of the beach to dominantly sand at the centre, through transition zones in which sand and gravel are mixed. Sixty‐four surface samples were analysed for grain size; two sediment parameters, mean grain size (M_z) and sorting (σ_I), were calculated.

A striking feature of the cumulative frequency curves is that both unimodai and bimodal distributions include median sizes over the whole range of sampled material, even though bimodal samples display two strong modes in the sand and gravel grades. The general deficiency lof sediment dn the very coarse sand and granule classes (0 to — 2 _F ) noted by numerous authors in many parts of the world is apparent in the poorly‐sorted bimodal samples. However, the best‐sorted samples also occur in these two classes.

Mean grain size of samples ranges from medium sand (1.820) to medium pebbles (—4.7 _F ), and sorting ranges from very well sorted (0.250) to very poorly sorted (2.69 _F ). Mean erain size on the northern beach is significantly greater than on the southern beach, but values of sorting are comparable. The greater mean size on one beach compared with the other is thought to be a function of the grade of material supplied by local rivers; the similarity in sorting presumably reflects the similarity of the processes acting on the two beaches.

Mixed sand‐shingle beaches are relatively rare on a world scale but common in New Zealand. Sediment distributions along the Kaikoura beaches do not reveal a regular decrease in size away from the rivers which supply material to shore at present. Instead, the beaches are differentiated into a number of sediment zones composed of either sand, or mixed sand‐gravel, or gravel. On each beach a gravel zone is located furthest from the river outlets. Sorting generally improves toward the Kaikoura Peninsula. Explanations for these trends are not given. Variations in size and sorting across the two beaches do not show a well developed zonation because of the high level of wave energy which continually mixes the material across the beach.     

威海典型海滩沉积地貌及质量评价

选择威海双岛湾附近海滩、国际海水浴场海滩、金海滩、青叽岛以西海滩、青叽岛以东海滩、天鹅湖海滩、桑沟湾海滩、楮岛海滩、南海新区海滩和乳山银滩十处代表性岸滩进行了海滩地貌和底质调查,结合沙滩表层样品分析测试数据,对研究区海滩地貌、沉积物粒度分布特征及海滩质量进行了综合评价。结果表明:威海海滩沉积物主要包括砾砂、粗砂、中砂、细砂四种类型,其中中砂分布最广,约占所有点位的35.6%,细砂、粗砂、砾砂分别占34.4%,26.7%和3.3%。岸滩坡度一般较缓,宽度中等以上,岸滩质量整体较好,部分岸滩受沉积物粒度影响,质量稍差。     

Overpassing and armouring phenomena on gravel beaches

Armouring phenomena are common in river beds, gravel beaches and spits. The gravel segregation recognized at depth in three different beaches of Patagonia and Tierra del Fuego, Argentina, allows us to propose a mechanism for formation.

A mixed population of gravel set into motion by waves is deposited progressively. Granules and fine gravels with higher pivoting angles in the beach slope are easily trapped within the bed, while rounded pebbles continue rolling over (overpassing) it. Finally, decreasing flow velocity allows the deposition of the larger pebbles, thus armouring the beach.

A carpet of round clasts of uniform size is more stable than the same clasts in a mixed population armouring the bed and covering a uniform layer of rounded granules and fine gravels.     

台风季节朱家尖岛砂、砾质岬湾海滩的不同沉积地貌动态变化

岬湾砂、砾质海岸是海岛、海岸带重要的旅游资源, 具有较高的社会经济和生态价值, 长期以来备受关注。本文以浙江朱家尖岛东岸的5个代表性岬湾海滩为例, 基于2019年台风季节早期、中期及晚期测量获得的海滩地形和沉积物数据, 结合海滩近岸的水动力数据, 分析了砂质海滩和砾石海滩这两种不同类型岬湾海滩的沉积地貌动态变化。结果表明, 朱家尖岛东岸5个海滩在台风季节出现了不同的体积变化, 大沙里、东沙、千沙、乌石塘和小乌石塘海滩的单宽体积变化分别为11.93m³·m^-1、-54.41m³·m^-1、-19.75m³·m^-1、2.19m³·m^-1和-1.96m³·m^-1。砾石滩较砂质海滩更为稳定, 无人类活动干扰的砂质海滩在台风季节侵蚀更少、变化更小。台风季节大沙里、东沙、千沙、乌石塘和小乌石塘海滩表层沉积物的平均粒径分别为2.47Փ、2.24Փ、2.64Փ、-5.96Փ和-6.03Փ, 粒径粗化和离岸输运是5个海滩表层沉积物在台风季节的主要表现, 砂质海滩的沉积物粒度特征变化比砾石海滩要大。沉积物粒径、台风强度及台风期间的主要波向与海滩走向之间的关系、海岸工程这3种因素都可能对海滩在台风季节的沉积地貌动态变化产生影响。本文研究结果可为台风季节的海滩管理提供参考。     

Large scale experiments on gravel and mixed beaches: Experimental procedure,data documentation and initial results

This paper provides information on the experimental set-up, data collection methods and results to date for the project “Large scale modelling of coarse grained beaches”, undertaken at the Large Wave Channel (GWK) of FZK in Hannover by an international group of researchers in Spring 2002. The main objective of the experiments was to provide full scale measurements of cross-shore processes on gravel and mixed beaches for the verification and further development of cross-shore numerical models of gravel and mixed sediment beaches. Identical random and regular wave tests were undertaken for a gravel beach and a mixed sand/gravel beach set up in the flume. Measurements included profile development, water surface elevation along the flume, internal pressures in the swash zone, piezometric head levels within the beach, run-up, flow velocities in the surf-zone and sediment size distributions.The purpose of the paper is to present to the scientific community the experimental procedure, a summary of the data collected, some initial results, as well as a brief outline of the on-going research being carried out with the data by different research groups. The experimental data is available to all the scientific community following submission of a statement of objectives, specification of data requirements and an agreement to abide with the GWK and EU protocols.     

Diagnostic investigation of impulsive pressures induced by plunging breakers impinging on gravel beaches

This paper presents an integrated investigation of physical processes generating impulsive pressures under the action of plunging breakers impinging on gravel beaches. This work is an extension of a recent investigation which suggested that wave impacts from plunging breakers acting on gravel beaches may be a key mechanism to enhance sediment mobilisation. In particular, comparisons of full scale laboratory measurements against model results from a well-validated phase/depth-resolving numerical model based on the Reynolds–Averaged Navier–Stokes (RANS) equations are presented. This represents the first attempt at comparison with such a tool against observed hydrodynamics on steep (slope~1/8) gravel beaches at prototype scale. In order to understand how impulsive pressures are generated under plunging waves, the numerical model is used to carry out a detailed investigation to examine the role of each of the acceleration terms in the momentum balance. Consistent with prior studies, numerical results show that under plunging breakers the local acceleration (∂u/∂t) alone cannot be used as a proxy for pressure gradients. However, the contribution of the third term (w∂u/∂z) of total acceleration is recognized for the first time and indicates that this term has an important role in both the induced pressure gradient and sediment mobilisation as induced by this particular type of breaking. Furthermore, results suggest that a parameterisation of the pressure gradient in terms of ∂u/∂t+u∂u/∂x, may not suffice when dealing with plunging breakers and hence there is a lack of a suitable parameterisation of this process in the present literature. Thus, for different types of breaking it may be necessary to consider a different characterisation of the pressure gradient toward the parameterisation of sediment transport inside the surf zone.