Crest-height distribution of nonlinear random waves

The wave crest is an important factor for the design of both fixed and floating marine structures. Wave crest height is a dominant parameter in assessing the likelihood of wave-in-deck impact and resultant severe damage. Many empirical and theoretical distribution functions for wave crest heights have been proposed, but there is a lack of agreement between them. It is of significance to develop a better new nonlinear wave crest height distribution model. The progress in the research of wave crest heights is reviewed in this paper. Based on Stokes’ wave theory, an approximate nonlinear wave crest-height distribution formula with simple parameters is derived. Two sets of measured data are presented and compared with various theoretical distributions of wave crests obtained from nonlinear wave models and analysis of the comparison is given in detail. The new crest-height distribution model agrees well with observations. Also, the new theoretical distribution is more accurate than the other methods cited in this paper and has a greater range of applications.     

New model for deducing directional extrema based on multivariate extremum statistical theory

The parameters of principal and directional extrema in a marine environment are important in marine engineering design, especially for appropriate construction of oceanic platforms and other structures. When designing wave walls and break water structures, the orientation of the breakwater or seawall depends mainly on the direction of the strongest waves. However, the strength of the breakwater and the elevation of the seawall depend on the magnitude of the biggest wave height of the strongest waves. Thus, identification of directional extrema plays an important role in the design of wave factors. When calculating the directional extremum, different materials may require different specific computational methods, yet few theoretical studies have been conducted in this field of research. Based on multivariate extremum statistical theory, this paper utilizes a discrete random variable to build a joint probability model compounded by a discrete random variable and a multivariate continuous random variable. Furthermore, this paper provides the first investigation on the theories and methodologies to deduce wave directional extrema. The results provide tools for both creating the calculation method of the directional extremum value and providing the rational directional extremum parameters for marine engineering design.     

A wave modulation model of ripples over long surface waves

A study is presented on the modulation of ripples induced by a long surface wave (LW) and a new theoretical modulation model is proposed. In this model, the wind surface stress modulation is related to the modulation of ripple spectrum. The model results show that in the case of LW propagating in the wind direction with the wave age parameter of LW increasing, the area with enhanced shear stress shifts from the region near the LW crest on the upwind slope to the LW trough. With a smaller wave age parameter of LW, the ripple modulation has the maximum on the upwind slope in the vicinity of LW crest, while with a larger parameter the enhancement of ripple spectrum does not occur in that region. At low winds the amplitude of ripple modulation transfer function (MTF) is larger in the gravity wave range, while at moderate or high winds it changes little in the range from short gravity waves to capillary waves.     

Dynamic responses of top tensioned riser under combined excitation of internal solitary wave, surface wave and vessel motion

An investigation on the dynamic response of a top tensioned riser (TTR) under combined excitation of internal solitary wave, surface wave and vessel motion is presented in this paper. The riser is idealized as a tensioned slender beam with dynamic boundary conditions. The KdV-mKdV equation is chosen to simulate the internal solitary wave, and the vessel motion is analysed by using the method proposed by Sexton. Using finite element method, the governing equation is solved in time domain with Newmark-β method. The computation programs for solving the differential equations in time domain are compiled and numerical results are obtained, including dimensionless displacement and stress. The action of internal solitary wave on the riser is like a slow powerful impact, and is much larger than those of surface wave and vessel motion. When the riser is under combined excitation, it vibrates at frequencies of both surface wave and vessel motion, and the vibration is dominated by internal solitary wave. As the internal solitary wave crest passes by the centre of the riser, the maximum displacement and stress along the riser occur. Compared to the lower part, the displacement and stress of the riser in the upper part are much larger.     

Distribution of the nonlinear random ocean wave period

Because of the intrinsic difficulty in determining distributions for wave periods, previous studies on wave period distribution models have not taken nonlinearity into account and have not performed well in terms of describing and statistically analyzing the probability density distribution of ocean waves. In this study, a statistical model of random waves is developed using Stokes wave theory of water wave dynamics. In addition, a new nonlinear probability distribution function for the wave period is presented with the parameters of spectral density width and nonlinear wave steepness, which is more reasonable as a physical mechanism. The magnitude of wave steepness determines the intensity of the nonlinear effect, while the spectral width only changes the energy distribution. The wave steepness is found to be an important parameter in terms of not only dynamics but also statistics. The value of wave steepness reflects the degree that the wave period distribution skews from the Cauchy distribution, and it also describes the variation in the distribution function, which resembles that of the wave surface elevation distribution and wave height distribution. We found that the distribution curves skew leftward and upward as the wave steepness increases. The wave period observations for the SZFII-1 buoy, made off the coast of Weihai (37°27.6′ N, 122°15.1′ E), China, are used to verify the new distribution. The coefficient of the correlation between the new distribution and the buoy data at different spectral widths (ν=0.3−0.5) is within the range of 0.968 6 to 0.991 7. In addition, the Longuet-Higgins (1975) and Sun (1988) distributions and the new distribution presented in this work are compared. The validations and comparisons indicate that the new nonlinear probability density distribution fits the buoy measurements better than the Longuet-Higgins and Sun distributions do. We believe that adoption of the new wave period distribution would improve traditional statistical wave theory.     

The application of a numerical model to coastal surface water waves

Based on the Navier-Stokes Equations (NSE), numerical simulation with fine grids is conducted to simulate the coastal surface wave changes, including wave generation, propagation, transformation and interactions between waves and structures. This numerical model has been tested for the generation of the desired incident waves, including both regular and random waves. Some numerical results of this model are compared with available experimental data. In order to apply this model to actual cases, boundary conditions are considered in detail for different shoreline types (beach or breakwater, slope or vertical wall, etc. ). Finally, the utility of the model to a real coastal area is shown by applying it to a fishing port located in Shidao, Rongcheng, Shandong Province, P.R. China.     

Directional spectra and eigen-solutions of vertically standing wavemodes of internal waves in shallow seas

Some approximate formulas, based on the internal- wave directional spectral model established by Schott and Willebrand (1973), of vertically standing wavemode eigenfunctions and a dispersion relation of internal waves in shallow seas are presented. An optimization method to estimate internal wave directional spectra is described and the confidence interval expression of the estimates is established. The GM spectral model of oceanic internal waves cannot be used in shallow seas (01 bers, 1983). Internal waves in shallow seas have two origins: oceanic (those generated in and propagating from the deep sea and ocean) and local (Phillips, 1977). As both reveal obvious propagation orientations, it is important to investigate the directional properties of the internal wave field. Though cross correlation function or cross-spectrum analyses can reveal the directional properties in some degree (Fang et al., 1984, and Fang, 1987), internal- wave directional spectrum analysis can further estimate the main propagation directions of wave components with different modenumbers and frequencies. So the latter is a more effective analysis tool. Because internal- wave directional spectrum analysis requires high quality data and long computer time, there are very few study reports so far on this subject. Among them. Schott and Willebrands' (1973) work is noteworthy. On the supposition, of linearization, they derived an internal- wave directional spectrum model. Internal-wave directional-spectra in shallow seas are investigated in the present study with their work as reference. Project supported by the National Natural Science Foundation of China.     

草鱼网围养殖区声波的研究

对网围养殖区内草鱼的活动声波进行了采集与分析,并将采集的声波进行了回放。结果表明,草鱼网围养殖区声波频率范围为0~3.2 kHz,整个频段内没有宽带波峰。在草鱼饥饿、食饵和饱食的不同状态下养殖区内的水声特性有一定的差异。研究表明在网围养殖区通过声波回放能对草鱼起到诱集作用,在投饵回放、投饵不回放及不投饵回放声波的情况下,草鱼的响应时间分别为2.55、3.504、.80 min,存在显著差异。回放持续性声波和间隔性声波在响应时间上不存在显著差异。     

Study on Dynamic Response of the ＂Dualistic＂ Structure Rock Slope with Seismic Wave Theory

Currently, scant attention has been paid to the theoretical analysis on dynamic response mechanism of the ＂Dualistic＂ structure roek slope. The analysis presented here provides insight into the dynamic response of the ＂Dualistie＂ structure rock slope. By investigating the principle of energy distribution, it is shown that the effect of a joint plays a significant role in slope stability analysis. A dynamic reflection and transmission model （RTM） for the ＂Dualistic＂ structure rock slope and explicit dynamic equations are established to analyze the dynamic response of a slope, based on the theory of elastic mechanics and the principle of seismic wave propagation. The theoretical simulation solutions show that the dynamic response of the ＂Dualistic＂ structure rock slope （soft-hard） model is greater than that of the ＂Dualistic＂ strueture rock slope （hard-soft） model, especially in the slope crest. The magnifying effect of rigid foundation on the dynamic response is more obvious than that of soft foundation. With the amplitude increasing, the cracks could be found in the right slope （soft-hard） crest. The crest failure is firstly observed in the right slope （soft-hard） during the experimental process. The reliability of theoretical model is also investigated by experiment analysis. The conclusions derived in this paper could also be used in future evaluations of Multi-layer rock slopes.     

Statistical distribution of nonlinear random water wave surface elevation

This study deals with the development of statistical modeling for water wave surface elevation by using a method that combines a dynamic solution with random process statistics. Ocean wave data taken from four NOAA (National Oceanic and Atmospheric Administration) buoys moored in the northeast Pacific were used to validate the model. The results indicated that the nonlinear probability density distribution of ocean wave surface elevation derived from the model described the measurements much better than Gaussian distribution and Longuet-Higgins distribution.     

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Interactions of two identical wave trains with a relative separation angle of 24°

Interactions between two identical monochromatic wave trains with a relative separation angle of 24? were experimentally investigated in a well-designed ‘X' configuration.Wave trains with different amplitudes and frequencies were generated.The results demonstrated that the interaction was strongly dependent on both wave amplitude and frequency.For nonbreaking and lower-frequency cases,the wave trains can approximately reestablish their initial state following the interaction.However,for larger waves,the interaction was enhanced,distorting the surfaces significantly-the wave trains were no longer two-dimensional after the encounter.During the interaction process,there was an obvious increase in wave height,reaching a maximum amplification in the middle of the interaction region that was approximately 1.55 times the initial height.Furthermore,the images captured by high-speed cameras illustrated that two wave trains entered the interaction region at the same time and then merged during the interaction process,resulting in an increase in wave amplitude.The combined wave crest was initially composed of two straight segments with a relative angle of 24? and gradually morphed into a single segment as is evident in the plan view.The wave then broke in the downstream,still within the interaction region,exhibiting a crescent pattern along the crest.     

Directional Spectrum of Wind Waves: Part Ⅰ- Model and Derivation

1　Introduction　Numerousinvestigationsondeepwaterwindwavespectrumhavebeen performed (Phillips ,195 8;Bretschneider,195 9;PiersonandMoscowitz ,196 4;Hasselmannetal.,1973;Donelanetal.,1985 ;Ban ner ,1990 ;Wenetal.,1999) .Ondimensionalground ,Phillips (195 8)suggestedthattheequilibriumfre quencyspectrumofwindwavesfordeepwatershouldbe proportionaltoω- 5,andthecorrespondingwavenumberspectrumshouldbe proportionaltok- 4,whereωistheangularfrequencyandkisthewavenumber.Forfully developedwindwaves…     

Numerical analysis of the nonlinear parameterization of waves in currents over a submerged sill with a non-hydrostatic model

An investigation of the effects of a uniform current strength direction (following or opposing wave propagation) on the nonlinear transformation of irregular waves over a submerged trapezoidal sill is carried out using SWASH, a non-hydrostatic numerical wave model. The nonlinear parameters (i.e., asymmetry, skewness, and kurtosis) are calculated, and the empirical formulas for these parameters are presented as a function of the local Ursell number based on the present numerical data measured. In the shoaling area of the submerged sill, the nonlinear characteristics of waves are more obvious when waves propagate in the same direction as the currents than when waves propagate in the opposite direction. Whereas nonlinear parameters grow with the strengthening of the following currents over the crest, they tend to decrease as the adverse current velocity increases over the crest area of the submerged sill.     

Relationship between wave steepness and wave age in the course of wind wave growth

It is traditionally assumed that the relationship between wave steepness and wave age is independent of the wind wave growth state. In fact, the traditional relationship can not describe the whole course of wind wave growth. This paper assumes that the relationship between wave steepness and wave age changes with the variety of dimensionless fetch. Based on the relationship proposed by Hou and Wen (1990), a new relationship in the course of wind wave growth is revealed. Comparisons between the present study and other previous relationships show that this new relationship explains better the observations than the other existing relationships.In the case of small fetch, wave age value increases more quickly than other models while it is in opposition to that in the case of large fetch. The result in present paper can clearly reflect the whole course of wind wave growth, it is an improvement for traditional results.     

论潮汐波与地震波

对潮汐波与地震波进行了比较，详细论述了这两种波的形成机理及其特征，介绍了它们的相似之处和不同点，为相关研究提供理论依据。     

Quadratic correction to the linear wave spectrum of two-dimensional random waves

ImooUcrIONAtfrequendesseveraltirathatofthespeCtralpcak,thewaveelevationhigherordercomPonentS'contributionstothewavespatrumaremoresignificantthanthosefromthelinearcomPonentS.Tick(l959)firstproposedandevaluatedtheserendxidespodrumofunidindionalrandomwaves.TheexpnaionderivedbyDingPingxingetal.(l994)forthesecondxirderspeCtmmisanimProvernentofTick's.TickandDingPingxingetal.didnotaanuntforthirdxirderperturbations,althoughthethirdxirdersolutionefhaonthequadraticspeCtrumisofthesameorderofmagnit…     

Wind wave characteristics and engineering environment of the South China Sea

Wave simulation was conducted for the period 1976 to 2005 in the South China Sea (SCS) using the wave model, WAVEWATCH-III. Wave characteristics and engineering environment were studied in the region. The wind input data are from the objective reanalysis wind datasets, which assimilate meteorological data from several sources. Comparisons of significant wave heights between simulation and TOPEX/Poseidon altimeter and buoy data show a good agreement in general. By statistical analysis, the wave characteristics, such as significant wave heights, dominant wave directions, and their seasonal variations, were discussed. The largest significant wave heights are found in winter and the smallest in spring. The annual mean dominant wave direction is northeast (NE) along the southwest (SW)-NE axis, east northeast in the northwest (NW) part of SCS, and north northeast in the southeast (SE) part of SCS. The joint distributions of wave heights and wave periods (directions) were studied. The results show a single peak pattern for joint significant wave heights and periods, and a double peak pattern for joint significant wave heights and mean directions. Furthermore, the main wave extreme parameters and directional extreme values, particularly for the 100-year return period, were also investigated. The main extreme values of significant wave heights are larger in the northern part of SCS than in the southern part, with the maximum value occurring to the southeast of Hainan Island. The direction of large directional extreme H _s values is focus in E in the northern and middle sea areas of SCS, while the direction of those is focus in N in the southeast sea areas of SCS.     

储层砂岩波阻抗及拉梅常数实验研究

地层条件下应用岩石物理参数测试系统(MTS)测试了岩石纵横波速度,结合已研究成果,根据实验数据和计算结果总结了波阻抗和拉梅常数与不同地层条件的关系,得到地表条件下岩样(饱气)的波阻抗随岩石孔隙度的增加而减小。同一个岩样(饱水)的波阻抗随着模拟地层深度的增加而增加。在各自相对应的模拟地层深度条件下,饱水岩样的纵波阻抗和拉梅常数值均明显大于饱气岩样的数值,但横波阻抗变化很小。     

A joint method to retrieve directional ocean wave spectra from SAR and wave spectrometer data

This paper proposes a joint method to simultaneously retrieve wave spectra at dif ferent scales from spaceborne Synthetic Aperture Radar(SAR) and wave spectrometer data. The method combines the output from the two dif ferent sensors to overcome retrieval limitations that occur in some sea states. The wave spectrometer sensitivity coeffi cient is estimated using an ef fective signifi cant wave height(SWH), which is an average of SAR-derived and wave spectrometer-derived SWH. This averaging extends the area of the sea surface sampled by the nadir beam of the wave spectrometer to improve the accuracy of the estimated sensitivity coeffi cient in inhomogeneous sea states. Wave spectra are then retrieved from SAR data using wave spectrometer-derived spectra as fi rst guess spectra to complement the short waves lost in SAR data retrieval. In addition, the problem of 180° ambiguity in retrieved spectra is overcome using SAR imaginary cross spectra. Simulated data were used to validate the joint method. The simulations demonstrated that retrieved wave parameters, including SWH, peak wave length(PWL), and peak wave direction(PWD), agree well with reference parameters. Collocated data from ENVISAT advanced SAR(ASAR), the airborne wave spectrometer STORM, the PHAROS buoy, and the European Centre for Medium-Range Weather Forecasting(ECMWF) were then used to verify the proposed method. Wave parameters retrieved from STORM and two ASAR images were compared to buoy and ECMWF wave data. Most of the retrieved parameters were comparable to reference parameters. The results of this study show that the proposed joint retrieval method could be a valuable complement to traditional methods used to retrieve directional ocean wave spectra, particularly in inhomogeneous sea states.