Study of nonlinear currents induced by coincident surface waves in liquid

This is an experimental study of the mixing induced by coincident surface waves in a liquid. The main mechanism leading to the emergence of mixing was shown to be the middle currents generated by coincident waves. The regime of these currents strongly depends on the amplitude of surface waves. For waves of near-critical amplitudes, an intense turbulization of middle currents is observed. Patterns of the velocity field were obtained using the Particle Imaging Velocimetry (PIV) technique for different amplitudes of surface waves. The results obtained can be used to estimate mixing in the near-surface oceanic layer.     

渤海湾风浪场的数值模拟

采用SWAN模型对渤海湾在定常风和非定常风作用下的波浪场进行了模拟,并利用黄骅港附近波浪统计资料对模拟结果进行了验证。结果表明：SWAN模型较好地模拟了渤海湾在定常风和非定常风作用下风浪成长和传播过程。此外,还应用ADCIRC潮流模型,初步探讨了潮流对波浪要素的影响：(1)无流存在时,波高的成长和波周期的变化是一条光滑的曲线,但当有流加入时,由于其流速和水位在一个潮周期内随时间的变化足不均匀的,其对波浪成长产生影响,使波高和周期呈不规则变化;(2)波浪成长初期,流对波高增长的影响并不明显,但当波高增大到一定程度时,流的存在对波高的影响是很明显的。     

Two-dimensional wave-current interaction with a locally enriched quadtree grid system

Wave-induced currents may drive nearshore mixing and transport processes, including coastal pollutant dispersion, littoral drift, and long-term morphological changes through beach erosion and accretion. In this study, a numerical model is newly developed to simulate wave climate and localized currents in complicated coastal environments. The model developed is based on a quadtree grid system. The two-dimensional hydrodynamic governing equations are solved by using an explicit Adams-Bashforth finite difference scheme. Effects of wave breaking, shoaling, refraction, diffraction, wave-current interaction, set-up and set-down, turbulent mixing, bed friction, and shoreline movement are incorporated in the model. Results are presented for set-up at a beach in a flume due to normally incident waves, and longshore currents generated by oblique waves on a plane beach.     

沿岸流中混合系数的实验研究

进行了在规则波作用下破波带内水平混合系数测量的物理模型实验。通过在沿岸流流场中投放墨水点源和采用CCD摄像机摄像,测量了点源扩散过程。利用水深平均二维扩散方程近似解析解得到了由实验结果计算混合系数的方法。实验结果表明:扩散系数仅依赖于当地水深,与波浪参数(周期和波高)无关。沿岸流沿水深变化产生的离散作用导致顺流方向(纵向)混合系数远大于横流方向(横向)混合系数。横流方向混合系数中由波浪产生的扩散系数占总扩散系数约40%,其余为波浪破碎引起的湍流产生的扩散系数。     

An experimental study of wave scattering by a vertical slotted barrier in the presence of a current

In coastal waters, tidal currents and surface waves co-exist. In this study, the influence of a steady current on the scattering of waves by a vertical slotted barrier is investigated experimentally in a wave flume. The separation of the incident and reflected waves is carried out by a two-point method that takes into account the effects of the current. Results show that currents significantly increase the wave-energy loss by the barrier and remarkably reduce the wave transmission through the barrier. It is suggested that the tidal currents should be taken into consideration in an economical design of slotted breakwaters.     

地转及均匀背景流场对混合层深度SAR遥感反演的影响

以考虑了地转和均匀背景流场影响的两层流体界面内波频散关系模型为基础,得到新的利用SAR遥感图像计算混合层深度的方法。利用该方法对一幅南海北部SAR内波图像进行了实例研究,并且和时空同步的CTD资料进行了对比。结果表明,加入地转和均匀背景流场影响的模型更为合理,为更准确地反演混合层深度奠定了基础。     

Second-Order Solutions for Random Interfacial Waves Under Steady Uniform Currents

1.Introduction Owingtothesimilaritiesbetweenthesurfacewaveandtheinterfacialwave,itisnaturaltoapply themethodsdevelopedforsurfacewavestothestudyofinterfacialwavesasreviewedbyUmeyama (1998;2000).Recently,Song(2004)derivedsecond ordersolutionsforrandominterfacialwavesat aconstantdepthinatwo layerfluidsystemwitharigidlidusinganexpansiontechnique,analogousto thatusedbyLonguet Higgins(1963)andSharmaandDean(1979),tostudyrandomsurfacewaves. Inthispaper,Song’sresultsareextendedtoamoregeneralcaseoft…     

Numerical study of wave and longshore current interaction

Wave and longshore current interaction was examined based on the numerical models.In these models,water waves in the presence of longshore currents were modeled by parabolic mild slope equation,and wave breaking induced longshore currents were modeled by shallow water equation.Water wave provided the radiation stress gradients to drive current.Wave and longshore current interactions were considered by cycling the wave and longshore current models to a steady state.The experiments for regular and irregular breaking wave induced longshore currents by Hamilton and Ebersole（2001） and Reniers and Battjes（1997） were simulated.The numerical results indicate that the present models are effective for simulating the interaction of wave and breaking wave induced longshore currents,and the numerically simulated longshore current at wave breaking point considering wave and longshore current interaction show some disagreement with those neglecting the wave-current interaction,and the breaking wave induced longshore current effect on wave transformation is not obvious.     

Transformation of the Indonesian Throughflow Water by Vertical Mixing and Its Relation to Tidally Generated Internal Waves

Numerical experiments with two-dimensional nonhydrostatic model have been performed to investigate tidally generated internal waves at the Dewakang sill at the southern Makassar Strait where two large-amplitude “bumps” of relatively shallow water exist. We investigate the effect of these features on vertical mixing, with emphasis on the transformation of the Indonesian throughflow (ITF) water properties. The result shows that large-amplitude internal waves are generated at both bumps by the predominant M₂ tidal flow, even though the condition of the critical Froude number and the critical slope are not satisfied. The internal waves induce such vigorous vertical mixing in the sill region that the vertical diffusivity attains a maximum value of 6 × 10⁻³ m²s⁻¹ and the salinity maximum and minimum core layers characterizing the ITF thermocline water are considerably weakened. Close examination reveals that bottom-intensified currents produced mainly by the joint effect of barotropic M₂ flow and internal tides generated in the concave region surrounding both bumps can excite unsteady lee waves (Nakamura et al., 2000) on the inside slopes of the bumps, which tend to be trapped at the generation region and grow into large-amplitude waves. Such generation of unsteady lee waves does not occur in case of one bump alone. Trapping and amplification of the waves in the sill region induce large vertical displacements (∼60 m) of water parcels during one tidal period, leading to strong vertical mixing there. Since the K₁ tidal currents are relatively weak, large-amplitude internal waves causing intense vertical mixing are not generated. This revised version was published online in July 2006 with corrections to the Cover Date.     

Model analysis of the currents and wind waves in the Vistula Lagoon of the Baltic Sea

This paper considers the results of the numerical simulation of the steady currents and waves field structures in the Vistula Lagoon under constant wind forcing. The currents?? structure is essentially 3-dimensional. The direction of the near-shore drift is determined by the wind and shore orientation, but the currents involve two layers in the deeper part of the basin: the upper layer downwind current and the upwind compensative current in the underlying layer. The wind waves depend upon the wind speed, fetch, and depth until the wind speed is less than 6?C8 m/s. As the wind increases, the fetch??s dependence disappears. The wind height depends only on the wind??s magnitude, and, under stormy conditions (when the wind??s speed exceeds 15 m/s), the waves are limited by the water depth alone.     

Longshore Currents over Barred Beach with Mild Slope

The laboratory experiment and numerical simulations of wave-driven longshore currents by random waves on barred beaches with slopes of 1:100 and 1:40 were conducted to investigate the bimodal feature of mean longshore currents, with emphasis on the location and ratio of two peaks of longshore currents. The location and ratio of two peaks are controlled by the sand bar. The influences of wave heights and beach slopes on the longshore currents are discussed. Numerical simulations were also performed to compute the measured velocity profile, with the emphasis on the effect of lateral mixing, bottom friction and surface rollers on numerical results.     

Transient effects in wave-current boundary layer flow

Previous studies of combined wave and current bottom boundary layer flow have concentrated on the final converged state of the flow following the addition of waves to a current. While this final state is of primary interest to modellers and engineers, it pre-supposes that such a state is actually attained in reality, and this may not always be the case. In addition, it overlooks the interesting and complicated transient effects which occur as a wave-current flow evolves from one state to another. The present study concentrates attention on the transient effects predicted by a “one-equation” turbulence closure model. Results of case studies are presented in which waves are superimposed co-linearly on a current (“forward problem”), and are then removed from the converged wave-current flow (“backward problem”). Two formulations of the “forward” and “backward” problems are discussed. In the first the steady component of the pressure gradient driving the mean flow is held constant throughout, and in the second the steady component of the mass flux is held constant. In each case the detailed evolution of the profiles of mean velocity, turbulent energy, mixing length, eddy viscosity and shear stress are discussed. More generally, the question of the convergence timescale of a combined wave-current flow is considered, and a convergence criterion is proposed.     

A numerical study on dynamic properties of the gravity cage in combined wave-current flow

Recent work in the area of open-ocean aquaculture-system dynamics has focused either on the response of fish cages in waves or the steady drag response from ocean currents, not on them combined. In reality, however, the forces bearing on these open-ocean structures are a nonlinear, multidirectional combination of both waves and current profiles. In this paper, a numerical model has been developed to simulate the dynamic response of the gravity cage to waves combined with currents. When current flows are combined with regular waves, gravity-cage motion response (including heave, surge, and pitch) and mooring-line forces have been calculated. To examine the validity of simulated results, a series of physical model tests have been carried out. The results of our numerical simulation are all in close agreement with the experimental data.     

Equilibrium scour depths around piles in noncohesive sediments under currents and waves

A universal formula for the estimation of equilibrium scour depth around a single cylindrical pile under the action of steady currents, tidal and short waves is presented.     

Short gravity waves on steady non-uniform currents obtained through up-/downwelling

Small amplitude water waves propagating in a medium with a steady non-uniform current are investigated. The non-uniform current is obtained by up- or downwelling through the horizontal bed. A new locally valid velocity potential correct to the second order is derived describing the combined wave–current motion. From this solution expressions for the local evolution of the wave amplitude and the wave number are extracted. These expressions are compared with the results found using the principle of wave action conservation and the linear dispersion relation, and good agreement is found at small distances compared to the wavelength. Unlike earlier works there is no restriction to deep water. The results valid for deep water are found as a special case of the general solution and agree with the solution found by Longuet-Higgins, M.S. and Stewart, R.W. (1961) The changes in amplitude of short gravity waves on steady non-uniform currents. Journal of Fluid Mechanics, 10(4), 529–549. Furthermore, it is shown that the principle of wave action conservation in fact holds for waves propagating in a medium with a steady non-uniform current maintained by up-/downwelling also on finite depth.     

Establishment,validation and discussions of a three dimensional wave-induced current model

A three-dimensional numerical model was established to simulate the wave-induced currents. The depth-varying residual momentum, surface roller, wave horizontal and vertical turbulent mixing effects were incorporated as major driving forces. A surface roller evolution model considering the energy transfer, roller density and bottom slope dissipation was developed. The expression of the wave-induced horizontal turbulent mixing coefficient proposed by Larson and Kraus (1991) was extended to three-dimensional form. Plenty of experimental cases were used to validate the established model covering the wave setup, undertow, longshore currents and rip currents. Validation results showed the model could reasonably describe the main characteristics of different wave-induced current phenomena. The incorporation of surface roller for breaking waves should not be neglected in the modeling of surfzone hydrodynamics. The wave-induced turbulent mixing affects the structures of wave-induced current either in horizontal or in vertical directions. Sensitivity analysis of the major calibration parameters in the established model was made and their ranges were evaluated.     

Effects of nonlinear inertial forces on nearshore currents

A perturbation method is developed to investigate the effects of nonlinear inertial forces on breaking-wave-induced nearshore currents. Obliquely incident waves are considered and the bottom topography varies periodically in the shoreline direction. For simplicity, lateral turbulent mixing is ignored. Numerical examples are given for a specified bottom topography with various angles of incidence and surf zone width. The nearshore currents of interest mainly belong to the meandering type. When the nonlinear terms are included, there appears an advective shift as well as an amplitude reduction in the current pattern.     

Analytical Study of Longitudinal Mass Flux Due to the Shear Effect in a Tidal Basin

The fundamental nature of the mass flux due to the shear effect is examined analytically in a basin with steady and oscillatory currents to promote a better understanding of the mass transport process in coastal waters. The currents are given from solutions of the simplified motion equation so as to be consistent with the diffusion equation. The matter concentration used is given by an analytical solution of the diffusion equation with the settling flux term contained. Mass flux, yielding the depth-averaged dispersion coefficient, is rather varied vertically in both steady and oscillatory currents. In the oscillatory current with a Stokes layer in particular, the vertical profile of flux is more complicated and even negative flux is induced near the basin floor. This negative flux does not necessarily yield a negative value of the vertically averaged dispersion coefficient. The exact dispersion coefficient given by the flux analysis is realized only in the steady state of the matter concentration distribution, though we can scarcely observe the steady state in the actual sea. The vertically uniform longitudinal dispersion coefficient at the stationary stage is shown to be caused from the vertical complexity of mass flux by the action of the vertical diffusing and the settling flux. This revised version was published online in July 2006 with corrections to the Cover Date.     

稳定风浪场谱特征量间的关系

风浪宏观特征量是描述风浪场特征的重要物理量。作者基于风浪有停留在混乱运动状态的趋势的性质对风浪场特征量间的关系进行了研究。主频波频率附近的波动自风摄取能量,风浪吸收的能量通过非线性相互作用在谱中重新分配。谱中能量的重新分配产生多尺度波动,这导致风浪波面的混乱运动(风浪处于混乱运动状态)。在稳定状态,风浪运动最为混乱。当风浪状态偏离最混乱运动状态,谱中非线性相互作用引起的能量重新分配将使风浪回到该状态。基于线性海浪理论导出风浪场特征量间的关系。导出的关系与观测结果进行了对比,发现理论结果与观测结果很好地符合。风浪场宏观特征量间存在固有关系。尽管目前风浪场特征量关系的观测结果存在差异,但本文中证明,所导出的理论关系与实验结果很好地符合。