Relation between beachface morphology and wave climate at Trafalgar beach (Cádiz, Spain)

Two years of offshore wave data and daily time exposure images from Trafalgar beach, a 2-km-long sandy beach located on the southwest coast of Spain that frequently exhibits rhythmic features, were used to (1) explore the variability of the beachface morphology and (2) determine environmental conditions associated with the different morphological states. The beachface morphology at three distinct alongshore sectors was analyzed and classified and five different morphological states were found that are related with the presence or absence of beach cusps and a berm: (1) large beach cusps, (2) small beach cusps, (3) low-tide terrace; (4) plane beach berm and (5) plane beach. The predominant beachface morphology is characterized by the presence of large beach cusps, and the main wave climate consisted of offshore significant wave heights ranging from 0.5–1 m and wave periods between 4 and 12 s. An alongshore variation of the morphology is found which might be related to the nearshore wave variability (SWAN wave model results). The morphologies are, in some cases, well-correlated with the daily offshore incident wave climate (described by the daily maximum significant wave height and the corresponding period), particularly for the moderate to high energy wave conditions. Small beach cusps appear under short period waves, whereas when the wave periods are longer the morphology tends to change to large beach cusps. This transition only occurs if the forcing is maintained as constant for a certain duration, which depends itself on the wave energy. It is concluded that correlations over 90% are only found for the highest wave energy conditions or under long wave periods. For the remainder, it is not possible to generally correlate the beachface morphology based only on the wave forcing because the previous morphological state cannot be ignored.     

Beach face and berm morphodynamics fronting a coastal lagoon

This study documents two different modes of berm development: (1) vertical growth at spring tides or following significant beach cut due to substantial swash overtopping, and (2) horizontal progradation at neap tides through the formation of a proto-berm located lower and further seaward of the principal berm. Concurrent high-frequency measurements of bed elevation and the associated wave runup distribution reveal the details of each of these berm growth modes. In mode 1 sediment is eroded from the inner surf and lower swash zone where swash interactions are prevalent. The net transport of this sediment is landward only, resulting in accretion onto the upper beach face and over the berm crest. The final outcome is a steepening of the beach face gradient, a change in the profile shape towards concave and rapid vertical and horizontal growth of the berm. In mode 2 sediment is eroded from the lower two-thirds of the active swash zone during the rising tide and is transported both landward and seaward. On the falling tide sediment is eroded from the inner surf and transported landward to backfill the zone eroded on the rising tide. The net result is relatively slow steepening of the beach face, a change of the profile shape towards convex, and horizontal progradation through the formation of a neap berm. The primary factor determining which mode of berm growth occurs is the presence or absence of swash overtopping at the time of sediment accumulation on the beach face. This depends on the current phase of the spring-neap tide cycle, the wave runup height (and indirectly offshore wave conditions) and the height of the pre-existing berm. A conceptual model for berm morphodynamics is presented, based on sediment transport shape functions measured during the two modes of berm growth.     

Morphodynamic evolution of a coastal lagoon entrance during swash overwash

New field observations of beach berm growth resulting in the sub-aerial closure of an intermittently closed and open lake or lagoon are presented. These perched estuarine systems frequently exhibit ephemeral entrances that respond to process forcing almost instantaneously on a geomorphic timescale, with closure by a supra-tidal berm of depositional origin. The observations were made following a mechanical opening of the entrance and show very rapid vertical growth of an initially low beach berm as a result of swash overtopping and sediment overwash. Very little simultaneous seaward progradation was observed. Sediment overwash volumes were obtained from survey data over a period of 12 days either side of spring tide and the observations also provide an accurate measure of swash sediment transport at the berm crest. A process-based parametric model is developed through robust parameterisations of wave run-up, wave run-up distributions and sediment transport and is applied to predict the total overwash transport into and infilling the estuary entrance. The model is tested against the field data and compares well with the observations. While the field data are site-specific, the proposed modelling framework represents a first step in modelling the complex growth and recovery of natural beach berms in broad-scale morphodynamic models.     

波控岬间海滩剖面短期变化过程分析

利用粤东寮咀口岬间海滩重复测量的剖面数据，通过经验特征函数及主要空间函数的分析和功率谱估计分析，结果表明，海滩剖面主要由2个空间模式构成：前滨模式和滩肩模式。空间模式在时域上具有一定的振荡周期。其中，前滨模式以4天的准周期变化为主，滩肩模式则有2．8天的准周期性变化。此外，影响海滩剖面短期变化的主要动力因素是波浪，台风大浪则是剖面迅速变化的直接驱动力。     

Morphodynamics of intertidal bars in wave-dominated coastal settings — A review

Intertidal bar systems are ubiquitous features on wave-dominated beaches in coastal settings with a significant (> 1 m) tidal range. Depending primarily on the wave conditions and the tidal range, and to a lesser extent on the nearshore gradient, they can assume a variety of forms. Slip-face bars represent the most pronounced and dynamic intertidal bar morphology, and are generally found on their own around the mean high tide level. They usually form low on the intertidal beach after storm-induced beach erosion and develop into a berm under prolonged calm wave conditions. Low-amplitude ridges and sand waves represent multiple bar morphologies. The bars occur across the entire intertidal profile and they remain present throughout the year. Multiple intertidal bars tend to be rather subdued and relatively static, especially sand waves, and their origin remains unclear.The morphological response of intertidal bars to changing wave conditions is largely forced: bars build up and migrate onshore under calm waves, and are flattened and may migrate offshore during storms. The morphological response is, however, significantly affected by relaxation time effects and morphological feedback, particularly on beaches with multiple intertidal bars. Despite their morphological differences, the intertidal bar types exhibit pronounced similarities in their morphodynamics. Sediment transport processes and morphological response are principally controlled by the tidal water levels on the beach, because these, together with the offshore wave energy level and the beach morphology, determine the type, intensity and duration of the wave processes operating on the cross-shore profile.It is the dominant importance of tidal water level variations and wave processes in shallow water depths (swash and surf zone bores), rather than wave height variability and deeper water wave processes (breaking and shoaling waves), that constitutes the main difference between intertidal and subtidal bar morphodynamics.     

TRANSFORMATION PATTERNS OF SUBAERIAL MICRO-TIDAL BEACHES

Seven subaerial, low energy beaches in the SE Mediterranean were surveyed biweekly for 13 months. Beach level data were computer-processed and plotted as time-series profile diagrams that differentiated the subaerial beach into three basic subenvironments: backshore, berm, and swash-zone. Heterogeneous seasonal trends in beach sand budget, erosion/accretion patterns, occurrence of ridges and berm-crests, and in pollution by seaborne tar were observed. The profile stations also showed very different degrees of seasonality, although located along similar beaches. Local beachrock protection, when evident, effectively masked seasonality by significantly lowering beach dynamics. Biweekly, seasonal, and annual fluctuations of the beach sand-budget were computed. Average annual net sand flux at the seven beaches was 66 m³/m of beach front, though wide variations occurred. Annual changes in the sand budget along the study area exceeded volumetric changes within the profile, indicating longshore sand transfer. Synchronism of beach behavior prevailed only at the seasonal level. However, intra-seasonal fluctuations for the different profile stations were out of phase, indicating poor synchronism of beach response due to longshore movement of rhythmic topography. Profile changes were thus often unrelated to concomitant wave-climate changes. The overall heterogeneous beach response was in sharp contrast to the identical wave climate, similar bathymetry, and sedimentology of the studied beaches.     

Cyclic and Seasonal Beach Response: A Comparison of Oceanside and Bayside Beaches

This study compares the cyclic and seasonal geomorphic responses of oceanside and bayside beaches on Sandy Hook Spit, New Jersey. It was hypothesized that the different nature of onshore wind regimes at bayside and oceanside beaches would cause different types of beach change. On the east-facing ocean shoreline, rates of beach change are related to weather patterns associated with the passage of mid-latitude cyclonic storms. Bayside beach change is related to the influence of the prevailing westerlies. Storm erosion and post-storm deposition is more rapid on oceanside beaches. Swell waves occurring between storms rapidly reinstate pre-storm equilibrium conditions. Lower bay-side wave energies occurring between storms have little effect on profile development, and foreshore slopes inherited from previous storms undergo little change. Bayside beaches therefore appear to be more in equilibrium with storm conditions than oceanside beaches.

Changes in foreshore slope, beach volume, and beach position associated with individual storm events are compared to seasonal trends to test the applicability of the Hayes cyclic model of beach development to both oceanside and bayside beaches. There is evidence of a cyclic trend of develop-ment on the more exposed ocean sites and seasonal development on the more sheltered bayside sites, which suggests that cyclic development may be causally related to the difference among the energy levels of the storm and nonstorm wave regimes.     

Coastal cliff behaviour: Observations on the relationship between beach levels and recession rates

Beaches dissipate wave energy and regulate the frequency that the cliff foot is subject to wave attack. The relationship between beach levels and cliff recession rates has been established for Pleistocene soft rock cliffs along the North Norfolk and Suffolk coasts, UK. The results suggest that over a decadal timescale, there is a non-linear increase in the average recession rate as the beach profile area above High Water Mark (HWM) decreases. Small changes in beach level can result in significant differences in the recession rates. The impact of a unit change in beach level on the recession rate depends on the initial beach level. On a year-by-year basis, it is possible to divide the beach level and recession relationship into a series of zones with characteristic types of behaviour. At low beach levels there is high to extremely high recession with considerable variability, whereas at high beach levels there is almost zero recession with limited variability. It is concluded that historical recession rates are the product of both the past forcing events and changes in cliff–beach state. Extrapolation of historical rates can be extremely unreliable unless it is supported by an understanding of the dynamic behaviour of the cliff–beach system and the energy inputs over the observation period.     

Differences in vegetation characteristics with shoreline position on a tropical pocket beach

ABSTRACT

Composition and richness of coastal vegetation differs with distance from the water and sheltering by topography. Transition from pioneer beach plants to mature forests is expected to be narrow on low wave energy coasts with a tropical climate favorable to vegetation growth. The goal of this paper is to determine whether vegetation on the beach and foredune will be denser and have a greater number of species and more woody shrubs near the water as wave and wind stresses diminish because of favorable shoreline orientation within a pocket beach. Field data on beach width, beach mobility, dune height, vegetation species, vegetation height and percent vegetation cover were collected in Puerto Rico along six cross-shore transects. Beaches are more stable at transects in the lee of an eolianite barrier and a tombolo. The vegetation gradient there is compressed, with denser, taller, more diverse vegetation and more tree species close to the waterline than at more exposed sites. The lack of mobility of the beaches and dunes and lack of geomorphically significant disturbance events is in contrast to the conspicuous feedbacks between overwash, topography, and vegetation on exposed mid-latitude coasts, revealing the need for more study of low-energy beach environments.     

Processes reshaping the Nile delta promontories of Egypt: pre- and post-protection

Shoreline positions established from beach profile surveys combined with wave data are jointly analyzed, as a function of their contribution to coastal processes, to investigate the interaction between waves, shoreline orientation and coastal structures along the Nile delta promontories, Rosetta, Burullus and Damietta. Repeated beach profile surveys along the promontory sectors (64 km long in total) have been analyzed to determine rates of shoreline changes prior to construction (1971–1990) and after construction of protective structures (1990–2000). The behavior of coastline pre- and post-construction indicates that coastal erosion fronting protective structures has declined in the case of the seawalls at the tips of the Rosetta and Damietta promontories, or has been partially replaced by sand accumulation in the case of detached breakwaters at Baltim (east of Burullus promontory) and at Ras El Bar (west of the Damietta promontory). As a consequence, downdrift erosion has been initiated in local areas adjacent to these structures in the direction of longshore sediment transport. The 5-km-long seawall protecting the Rosetta promontory has stopped the dramatic erosion of this highly eroded area (formerly shoreward retreated 88 m/year), with adverse local erosion at its west and east ends, being 3 and 13 m/year, respectively. Similarly, the 6-km-long seawall built on the eastern tip of the Damietta Promontory, still under construction, has nearly stopped the severe erosion, which was formerly 10 m/year. The detached breakwaters at both Baltim and at Ras El Bar have accumulated sand at accretion rates of 37 and 14 m/year, respectively. This sand accumulation is associated with downdrift erosion of 25 and 13 m/year at Baltim and Ras El Bar, respectively. Results reaffirm that the original erosion/accretion patterns along the Nile delta promontories have been reshaped due to the massive protective structures built during the last decade. This reshaping along the examined promontories is generally controlled by the temporal variability in the intensity and reversibility of wave directions and associated longshore currents, coastline orientation and by the existing coastal protection structures.     

基于地形动力学的海滩裂流安全性评价 ——以三亚大东海为例

文章基于海滩地形动力学模型建立了海滩安全性评价方法,认为低潮沙坝/裂流海滩类和沙坝类海滩出现裂流概率最大,沙坝消散类和有裂流的低潮台地类海滩裂流风险中等,没有裂流的低潮台地海滩、没有沙坝的消散海滩、超消散型、完全反射型海滩裂流风险很小。以三亚大东海为例,利用该评价方法分析了海滩溺水事故频发的原因,结果显示：1）该海滩状态以沙坝型和低潮沙坝/裂流海滩型为主,属于高风险海滩,此结论与当地救生实践吻合;2）该海滩溺水事故发生的根本原因为裂流危险性高,故容易发生溺水事故。     

海南岛东部铜鼓岭岸段港湾岸滩沉积特征

海南岛东部铜鼓岭岬角南、北两侧的淇水湾和月亮湾海岸海滩均为中粗砂海滩,其中值粒径和平均粒径主要分布在0~2 Ф之间,反映了海南岛东部动力作用整体较强。月亮湾近岸20 m水深处沉积物的中值粒径主要分布在-1~-3 Ф之间,主要以砾石为主;10~20 m水深处沉积物中值粒径分布在-1~0 Ф之间,以极粗砂为主;铜鼓岭南部淇水湾,以粗砂为主,部分区域出现细砂,反映海滩受到的动力条件不如北部月亮湾海岸海滩显著。造成这种差异的主要原因是铜鼓岭岬角对东北向(主风向)风浪的阻挡和岬角南部港湾有宽广的珊瑚礁平台对波浪的消能。而且,淇水湾海岸北部和南部也有差异,北部珊瑚礁平台受到破坏,对波浪的消浪较弱,从而表现同一海滩滩面物质分布的南北差异。     

海南岛珊瑚岸礁的特征

本文分析了海南岛珊瑚岸礁的成礁环境,论述了本岛岸礁的结构特征,进而划分了岸礁类型,最后探讨岸礁发育与海平面变化的关系。     

Hydrodynamic interpretation of a boulder berm and associated debris-torrent deposits

The hydrodynamic environment associated with a boulder berm is reconstructed from the geometry and sedimentology of the berm and associated debris-torrent deposits. Berms may result from a variety of hydrodynamic scenarios but in this instance the berm was associated with flow separation downstream of an abrupt change in channel morphology. Sediment fabric analyses are summarized particularly as eigenvalues and these data compared with the fabric of debris flows and clear-water gravel deposits. Although data are few, the eigenvalue results can be interpreted consistently as reflecting a transition between the end members of a sediment fabric continuum.The value of detailed studies of berm geometry and sedimentology is discussed with reference to their hydraulic significance. This latter aspect is important for palaeo-discharge reconstruction of both Newtonian and non-Newtonian flows.     

Sedimentological and morphological characteristics of gypseous coastal nabkhas on Bubiyan Island,Kuwait, Arabian Gulf

Gypseous nabkhas of peculiar morphology occur on the beach berm and backshore slope along the southern coast of Bubiyan Island in northeast Kuwait. Their sediments are muddy sands and are mainly composed of gypsum with small amounts of shells, shell fragments, quartz and feldspars. Two types of gypsum are recognised: detrital grains and authigenic crystals. The authigenesis of gypsum within the nabkha detrital sediments is responsible for the significant increase in the volume of the nabkhas as well as considerable change in their morphology from a standard aerodynamic form to a whaleback shape. The genesis and diagenesis of the nabkha sediments are discussed, and future studies are recommended. The study concluded that mineral authigenesis within aeolian nabkha sediments should be seriously considered during the interpretation of their granulometrical characteristics and morphometric parameters.     

A SYNOPTIC CLIMATOLOGY OF TORNADOES IN VIRGINIA

Although tornadoes are microscale meteorological features, their occurrence is linked to the larger synoptic-scale environment. Most conceptual models of synoptic situations that give rise to tornadoes are based on conditions prevalent in the Great Plains of the United States. However, tornadoes develop in many different synoptic environments, particularly when they form beyond the boundaries of “Tornado Alley.”

Tornado occurrences in the state of Virginia are identified from 1951 through 1992. Using upper air data for the nearest site and observation time, a synoptic classification is produced via application of principal components analysis and cluster analysis. The five resulting synoptic classes each exhibit distinctive thermodynamic and flow conditions that serve as air-mass paradigms for tornado occurrence in Virginia. The groups include thermodynamic/northwest flow air masses, a mixed thermodynamic/dynamic category, a polar front jet situation, cool season midlatitude cyclone events, and Great Plains type tornadic air masses. A sixth type, tornadoes spawned by tropical systems, is defined separately.

A variety of indices have been developed by forecasters to provide information about the likelihood of severe weather and tornadic activity. The lifted index, K-index, Showalter index, SWEAT, Totals index, and a wind shear index are calculated for each tornado event. Analysis of variance indicates that most of these indices are statistically different between synoptic classes.

These results suggest that the synoptic-scale mechanisms responsible for tornado occurrence in the mid-Atlantic states are quite variable. Enhanced predictive capability could be gained by considering the prevailing synoptic conditions associated with individual storms. [Key words: synoptic climatology, tornadoes, Virginia, classification, severe weather.]     

Beach recovery after 2004 Indian Ocean tsunami from Phang-nga, Thailand

The 2004 Indian Ocean tsunami devastated the coastal areas along the Andaman western coast of Thailand and left unique physical evidence of its impact, including the erosional landforms of the pre-tsunami topography. Here we show the results from monitoring the natural recovery of beach areas at Khuk Khak and Bang Niang tidal channels of Khao Lak area, Phang-nga, Thailand. A series of satellite images before and after the tsunami event was employed for calculating the beach area and locating the position of the changed shoreline. Field surveys to follow-up the development of the post-tsunami beach area were conducted from 2005 to 2007 and the yearly beach profile was measured in 2006. As a result, the scoured beach areas where the tidal channel inlets were located underwent continuous recovery. The return of post-tsunami sediments within the beach zone was either achieved by normal wind and wave processes or during the storm surges in the rainy season. Post-2004 beach sediments were derived mainly from near offshore sources. The present situation of the beach zone has almost completed reversion back to the equilibrium stage and this has occurred within 2 years after the tsunami event. We suggest these results provide a better understanding of the geomorphological process involved in beach recovery after severe erosion such as by tsunami events.     

Effects of fetch and surface texture on aeolian sand transport on two nourished beaches

Aeolian sand transport on two nourished beaches was related to the fetch of the wind over the beach sand and to surface characteristics. Meteorological and hydrological conditions were recorded for 2 months. The fetch of wind over beach sand was estimated from wind direction, water level, wave height and beach topography. Aeolian sand transport was determined with sand traps. Sediment flux was found to increase with fetch, although this relation was especially affected by the variability in surface characteristics. On one of the beaches sediment supply was limited as a result of shells, forming a lag deposit.     

Observations of beach cusps

Aagaard. Troels: Observations of beach cusps. Geografisk Tidsskrift 85: 27–31 Copenhagen, October 1985.

Observations of beach cusps have been conducted under low-energy conditions on the northern coast of Zealand, Denmark. The distance between cusps showed consistently good correlation with values calculated from a hypothetical occurrence of synchronous or subharmonic edge waves. A relationship is implied between the edge wave frequency and the value of the surf scaling parameter. Supplementary observations from the southern coast of England indicate that the edge wave theory may not be adequate in explaining the distance between cusps on pocket beaches.     

塔克拉玛干沙漠腹地地表辐射收支特征研究

利用塔克拉玛干沙漠大气环境观测试验站探测的辐射数据,分析了流动沙漠区近地层辐射收支特征以及云和沙尘对其的影响。总辐射在夏季某些特定的天气条件下接近太阳常数。不同天气条件下,辐射收支特征存在较大差异;总辐射受云和沙尘的影响最明显,变幅最大,夏季沙尘暴天气时比晴天减少了80%以上;反射辐射的日变化趋势在各个季节内、各种天气条件下与总辐射非常一致;大气长波辐射所受影响较小,且云和沙尘会使其略微增加;地面长波辐射的变化幅度最小,均在10%以下;净辐射在阴天时略微降低,沙尘天气时明显降低,为负值。观测期间的平均辐射特征与晴天比较接近,平均的总辐射、净辐射与晴天的比值白天基本在0.7左右,说明云和沙尘对塔中的辐射能量有较大的强迫作用。