海岸破波带内悬沙空间分布试验研究和解析表达式

关于海岸破波带内悬沙浓度水平和垂向分布的研究对于计算海岸输沙率和地形演变具有重要意义。本研究进行了规则波、波群和不规则波三种波浪情况破波带内悬沙浓度的水平和垂向分布的试验测量。试验在大尺度波浪水槽进行,接近实际海岸波况尺度。给出了破波带内多断面悬沙垂向分布的细致测量结果,并以此为基础给出了预报实际海岸破波带内悬沙浓度水平和垂向分布解析表达式,讨论了形成这些分布的物理原因和不同波况、不同破波带区域对分布的影响。     

波浪水质点漂流速度的研究现状

一、研究目的和现状波浪水质点的漂流速度U(亦称波浪传质速度),使波浪破波带的悬沙和底沙产生向岸和离岸横向运动,且当波浪进入水流区后,由于波浪水质点存在漂流速度,所以,除水流使波浪原始要素发生改变外,波浪也在不同程度上改变着流场,可见波浪水质     

北戴河海滩泥沙捕获实验及其初步结果分析

介绍了利用泥沙捕获器观测破波带泥沙垂直分布结构的现场实验方法和基本程序，以及利用实验结果计算泥沙通量的方法。研究表明，近岸带泥沙运移通量及其在垂向上的分布受破波带相对位置和海滩地形变化的影响。在破波点附近，波浪的搅动和流场作用强，泥沙运移通量增大，泥沙在波浪的作用下可以大量进入垂直水体以悬移和跃移的方式运移。在本实验中，破波点附近的泥沙在距海底100cm的垂直水体中运移，通量垂向向上逐渐减小。远离破波点，泥沙运移通量和进入垂直水体的高度明显下降。在地形变化复杂的有坝海滩，沙坝顶部的泥沙运移通量最大，泥沙进入垂直水体运移的机率增加，而在沙坝问的沟槽内，波浪和海流作用减弱，泥沙通量和垂向进入水体运移的比例下降。     

准三维位相分解的水动力及泥沙输运模型

本文将一个基于扩展到破波带的Boussi nesq方程的二维位相分解波浪变形模块与一个波浪挟沙输运模块相结合来计算二维输沙率 ,建立了两个水动力模块来计算流及湍粘性的垂向变化 ,以及波浪悬沙浓度和悬沙输沙率。在几种情况下对该模型进行了验证 ,并做了精度分析。Elfrink等 (1 996)给出了三维模型的描述 ,即一个无界海滩位相平均的波浪模块和一个波浪挟沙输运模块的合成。需要一个波浪理论来计算波要素。Rakha等 (1 997)所描述的模型则代表一个可位相分解的海岸剖面模型 ,即由一个一维 (1D)Boussinesq模块和一个垂向一维(1DV)波浪水动力及…     

近岸人工沙坝保滩促淤的试验研究

借助正态波浪模型,对北戴河海滩某横断面有、无沙坝布置进行了3种水位的极限波高入射试验,测取了坝内外波高过程线及稳定后的断面地形。试验资料及理论分析显示:有无沙坝时沿岸流及波浪的挟沙能力之比与水下沙坝的波浪透射系数的平方成正比,按试验最大透射系数计算的挟沙能力亦可降50%左右,且有沙坝上涌带破波回流对岸滩的冲刷水深可以维持在平均海平面以下1 m内,说明人工沙坝的填筑很大程度促使水体挟带泥沙于掩护区域落淤有效的阻止了泥沙的离岸亏损。试验将为保滩促淤工程设计与实施提供科学依据。     

不同破碎波对沙质海床作用的实验研究

破碎波对近海海岸地形以及海岸建筑物影响强烈,通过物理模型实验对孤立波、规则波作用下破碎带的床面形态以及孔隙水压力进行分析。破碎波冲击海床,破碎处床面上形成沙坝和沙坑,与规则波相比,孤立波破碎时对床面的冲刷更加剧烈,床面形成的沙坝和沙坑尺度更大,且土体内孔隙水压力幅值也较大。同时研究了波面变化对孔隙水压力的影响,发现波面变化历时曲线与孔隙水压力历时曲线相似,与孔隙水压力梯度历时曲线更为相似,说明波面变化更能反映海床内部孔隙水压力梯度的变化。通过探讨波浪与海床之间相互耦合作用,发现破碎带地形变化使得波浪出现不同破碎类型,分析得出卷破波比崩破波作用下孔隙水压力幅值大。     

波浪与潮流对潮滩悬沙含量贡献的现场观测

通过实时观测黄河口洪季(9月)潮滩潮周期内悬沙浓度和波潮流等水动力因素的变化,并结合边界层悬浮物剖面测量仪(ASM-4)数据,讨论了悬沙浓度在潮周期内的变化及其影响因素,计算了再悬浮通量、分析了悬沙浓度的垂向分布特征。结果表明,一级海况下海流对再悬浮的贡献较大,二级海况下波浪对再悬浮的贡献较大。观测点悬沙浓度多以浓度峰的形式出现,既有潮流冲刷床面所引起的悬沙浓度峰,也存在由波致再悬浮和潮流输运所引起的悬沙浓度峰。     

人工岬角和海滩养护下泥沙输运与海床演变

实施人工岬角和海滩养护的软硬措施相结合的方法是探索解决海滩侵蚀问题的新举措之一。基于验证良好的水动力模型建立了泥沙输运和海床演变模型,对秦皇岛市新开河口至南山岸线海滩经整治修复工程实施后的泥沙输运和海床演变规律进行模拟分析。结果表明:大潮与常浪耦合作用下,研究区域周围海域流速整体上落急时刻大于涨急时刻,沙坝掩护水域的流速较弱,波浪在沙坝处增强并在沙坝后破碎并减弱;在沙坝处出现高悬沙浓度区域,悬沙浓度分布主要由底床切应力控制,部分受水动力影响。大潮与强浪耦合作用下,在沙坝处出现远大于常浪时的增强水流(波生流),方向与强浪向一致,波浪在沙坝处已破碎且沙坝对强浪的削减效率大于常浪;与常浪作用下不同,悬沙浓度场在强浪作用下沙坝处没有出现明显的高浓度区域。波流耦合作用下,人工岬角单独存在时护岸效果有限,工程实施后在人工岬角和人工沙坝的配合下,沙坝处侵蚀而沙坝后侧掩护区域淤积,沙坝起到了有效养护海滩的作用。     

黄河三角洲海底土波致再悬浮研究

在现代黄河三角洲采集土样,制备室内水槽试验的底床,施加波浪作用,观测波致悬沙含量的变化规律,分析不同波高、作用时间对单位面积底床再悬浮量的影响,及波浪停止作用后悬浮泥沙的静水沉降规律。研究发现,在水深一定条件下底床再悬浮量呈现随波高增大而增大的特性,两者线性拟合的相关性很好;在一定波高的波浪连续作用下,约5 000~6 000个波周期底床再悬浮过程完成;在波浪作用初始阶段底层悬沙含量与中上层的相差很大,悬沙含量垂线结构呈斜线型,稳定阶段的悬沙浓度垂向结构呈准直线型,底层与表层含沙量比值为0.98~1.25,整个水层含量分布均匀;静水沉降过程中当悬沙含量大于1 g/dm3,悬沙含量(SSC)呈现出随时间指数衰减的规律,悬沙浓度与沉降通量呈线性关系。研究结果对认识黄河水下三角洲泥沙运移规律具有一定的科学意义。     

长江口南槽最大浑浊带枯季大小潮悬沙峰特征及其动力机制

长江口最大浑浊带是陆海交汇的核心区域,其航槽是扼海-河联运的咽喉,悬沙峰的涨落潮周期变化深刻影响航槽的稳定性。本文利用长江口南槽上、中、下段3个站点枯季小潮和大潮的流速、盐度、悬沙平均粒径和悬沙浓度的实测资料,分析最大浑浊带悬沙峰特征及其动力机制。发现:流速和滩槽交换增强导致大潮平均悬沙浓度比小潮增加了0.78—1.97倍,絮凝也导致憩流底层悬沙浓度增加8%左右,但流速和絮凝与悬沙浓度的关系均非线性。大小潮盐度梯度与底层悬沙浓度关系呈现高线性相关关系,表明盐度梯度强化或突变是泥沙再悬浮形成悬沙峰的主要动力。     

Short-term variations and influencing factors of suspended sediment concentrations at the Heisha Beach,Guangdong, China

Knowledge of sediment variation processes is essential to understand the evolution mechanism of beach morphology changes. Thus, a field measurement was conducted at the Heisha Beach, located on the west coast of the Zhujiang River(Pearl River) Estuary, to investigate the short-term variation in suspended sediment concentrations(SSCs) and the relationship between the SSC and turbulent kinetic energy, bottom shear stress(BSS), and relative wave height. Based on extreme event analysis results, extr...     

A wave-resolving model for nearshore suspended sediment transport

This paper presents a wave-resolving sediment transport model, which is capable of simulating sediment suspension in the field-scale surf zone. The surf zone hydrodynamics is modeled by the non-hydrostatic model NHWAVE (Ma et al., 2012). The turbulent flow and suspended sediment are simulated in a coupled manner. Three effects of suspended sediment on turbulent flow field are considered: (1) baroclinic forcing effect; (2) turbulence damping effect and (3) bottom boundary layer effect. Through the validation with the laboratory measurements of suspended sediment under nonbreaking skewed waves and surfzone breaking waves, we demonstrate that the model can reasonably predict wave-averaged sediment profiles. The model is then utilized to simulate a rip current field experiment (RCEX) and nearshore suspended sediment transport. The offshore sediment transport by rip currents is captured by the model. The effects of suspended sediment on self-suspension are also investigated. The turbulence damping and bottom boundary layer effects are significant on sediment suspension. The suspended sediment creates a stably stratified water column, damping fluid turbulence and reducing turbulent diffusivity. The suspension of sediment also produces a stably stratified bottom boundary layer. Thus, the drag coefficient and bottom shear stress are reduced, causing less sediment pickup from the bottom. The cross-shore suspended sediment flux is analyzed as well. The mean Eulerian suspended sediment flux is shoreward outside the surf zone, while it is seaward in the surf zone.     

Analysis of some key parametrizations in a beach profile morphodynamical model

A numerical process-based model to forecast beach profile morphodynamics has been developed. In the present paper, an analysis of various modelling approaches and key parametrizations involved in the estimation of the wave-driven current and the suspended sediment concentration is carried out.Several resolution techniques for the 1DV horizontal (i.e., in the x-direction perpendicular to coastline) momentum equation governing the Mean Horizontal Velocity (MHV) are analysed. In the first kind of techniques, the mean horizontal velocity is computed from the momentum equation, whereas the Mean Water Level (MWL) is computed using a parametrization of the depth-averaged momentum equation. Two boundary or integral conditions are thus needed. In the second kind, both mean horizontal velocity and mean water level gradient in the x-direction are the unknowns of the momentum equation, thus, three boundary or integral conditions are needed. Various additional conditions are discussed. We show that using a technique of the first kind is equivalent to imposing the difference between the surface and the bottom shear stresses in the 1D vertical equation. Both techniques lead to results that are in good agreement with the Delta Flume experimental data, provided the Stokes drift flow discharge is imposed as an additional condition. The influence of the breaking roller model and of the turbulent viscosity parametrization are also analysed.Suspended sediment transport by the mean current and wave-induced bedload transport are taken into account in the sediment flux. Three turbulent diffusivity parametrizations are compared for suspended sediment concentration estimations. A linear profile for the turbulent diffusivity taking into account the wave bottom shear stress and the surface wave breaking turbulence production is shown to give the best results. Using experimental data, we put forward the poor estimation of the bottom sediment concentration given by the three implemented parametrizations. We thus propose a new parametrization relying on a Shields parameter based on the breaking roller induced surface shear stress. Using this new parametrization, the bottom profile used in the tests keeps its two bars which disappear otherwise. However, the morphodynamical model still overestimates the bars offshore motion, a bias already observed in other models.     

波浪对泥沙作用的数值研究及在渤海区域的检验

针对渤海海域开展了波致底切应力对泥沙作用的数值估计。针对浅水条件,通过理想试验估算了波致底切应力对波流耦合底切应力的贡献。针对渤海大风过程,利用ECOMSED模式,通过波流耦合底边界层模型模拟了渤海区域的泥沙浓度,并利用遥感资料对表层泥沙浓度的数值模拟进行了检验。对比结果表明,考虑波浪作用的情况下,模拟结果在总体分布上得到明显的改善。在大风过程中波浪对0~20 m近岸区域的泥沙再悬浮起主导作用。     

伶仃洋河口泥沙絮凝特征及影响因素研究

泥沙絮凝对河口细颗粒泥沙运动过程起着极其重要的作用。本文通过LISST-100激光粒度仪等仪器实测伶仃洋河口2013年洪季悬浮泥沙絮凝体现场粒径及水动力、泥沙条件,结合实验室悬沙粒径分析,研究大小潮期间伶仃洋河口泥沙絮凝特征,探讨紊动剪切强度、含沙量、盐度分层及波浪等因素对伶仃洋河口泥沙絮凝的影响。结果表明:伶仃洋河口水体中现场粒径平均值为148.53 μm,大于实验室悬沙分散粒径36.74 μm,河口絮凝现象明显;沉速与有效密度、粒径呈正相关,絮团平均有效密度为153.49 kg/m3,平均沉速达1.13 mm/s;小潮时絮团平均粒径大于大潮,垂向上表底层絮团粒径小、中层大,中底层絮团沉速大于表层。伶仃洋河口水动力、泥沙条件是影响其泥沙絮凝的重要因素,低剪切强度（小于5 s-1）、低含沙量（小于50 mg/L）及高体积浓度有利于细颗粒泥沙之间的相互碰撞,促进絮凝作用;当剪切强度与颗粒间碰撞强度高于絮团所能承受的强度时,絮团易破碎分解成小絮团或更细的泥沙颗粒;伶仃洋河口盐度层化引起的泥沙捕获现象增大中层泥沙体积浓度,有利于中层絮凝体的发育;观测期相对较大的波浪增强水体紊动,增大了水体细颗粒泥沙的碰撞几率,表层絮团粒径随波高峰值的出现而增大。     

Transport properties of entrained topographic waves during their interaction with turbulence

In the Boussinesq approximation, topographic waves entrained by a sloping bottom are considered with allowance for turbulent viscosity and diffusion. The mean flows induced by a wave through nonlinearity are determined. The turbulent exchange coefficients are expressed in terms of the density of turbulent energy by using the relations of the semiempirical theory of turbulence. The equation for boundary-layer wave solutions and the equation of turbulent energy balance are solved jointly, which makes it possible to determine the vertical distribution of the density of turbulent energy in the area of the given wave. In the diffusion approximation, the vertical distribution of the concentration of wave-suspended sediments is obtained for the case when the tangential bottom stress exceeds the critical values corresponding to the start of sediment motion.     

Effect of bed roughness on turbulent boundary layer and net sediment transport under asymmetric waves

This paper presents an investigation of the roughness effects in the turbulent boundary layer for asymmetric waves by using the baseline (BSL) k–ω model. This model is validated by a set of the experimental data with different wave non-linearity index, N_i (namely, N_i = 0.67, N_i = 0.60 and N_i = 0.58). It is further used to simulate asymmetric wave velocity flows with several values of the roughness parameter (a_m/k_s) which increase gradually, namely from a_m/k_s = 35 to a_m/k_s = 963. The effect of the roughness tends to increase the turbulent kinetic energy and to decrease the mean velocity distribution in the inner boundary layer, whereas in the outer boundary layer, the roughness alters the turbulent kinetic energy and the mean velocity distribution is relatively unaffected. A new simple calculation method of bottom shear stress based on incorporating velocity and acceleration terms is proposed and applied into the calculation of the rate of bed-load transport induced by asymmetric waves. And further, the effect of bed roughness on the bottom shear stress and bed-load sediment transport under asymmetric waves is examined with the turbulent model, the newly proposed method, and the existing calculation method. It is found that the higher roughness elements increase the magnitude of bottom shear stress along a wave cycle and consequently, the potential net sediment transport rate. Moreover, the wave non-linearity also shows a big impact on the bottom shear stress and the net sediment transport.     

Bottom friction beneath random waves

The effect of random waves on the bottom friction is studied by assuming that the wave motion is a stationary Gaussian narrow-band random process. The approach is also based on simple explicit friction coefficient formulas for sinusoidal waves. The probability distribution functions of the maximum bottom shear stress for laminar flow as well as smooth turbulent and rough turbulent flow are presented. The maximum bottom shear stress follows the Rayleigh distribution for laminar flow and the Weibull distribution for smooth turbulent and rough turbulent flow. Some characteristic statistical values of the maximum bottom shear stress for the three flow regimes are also given.     

Numerical study on vertical structures of undertow inside and outside the surf zone

Nearshore shoaling and breaking waves can drive a complex circulation system of wave-induced currents. In the cross-shore direction, the local vertical imbalance between the gradient of radiation stress and that of pressure due to the setup drives an offshore flow near the bottom, called ‘undertow’, which plays a significant role in the beach profile evolution and the structure stability in coastal regions. A 1DV undertow model was developed based on the relationship between the turbulent shear stress and t...     

Large-scale turbulence under a solitary wave

The structure of large-scale turbulence under a broken solitary wave on a 1 in 50 plane slope was studied. Three-component velocity measurements were taken at different heights above a smooth bed in the middle surf zone using an acoustic Doppler velocimeter. The measured data showed that turbulent velocity components were well correlated in the middle part of the water column. The velocity correlations could be produced by an oblique vortex similar to the obliquely descending eddy observed previously by other investigators. The vertical distributions of the relative values of the components of the Reynolds stress tensor showed that the structure of turbulence evolved continuously between the free surface and the bottom. The evolution was related to transition from two-dimensional to three-dimensional flow structures and the effect of the solid bottom on flow structures. Time histories of measured turbulent kinetic energy and turbulence stresses showed episodic turbulent events near the free surface but more sporadic turbulence in the lower layer. Large or intense turbulent events were found to have short duration and time lag relative to the wave crest point. These events also maintained good correlations between the turbulence velocity components close to the bottom.Instantaneous turbulent velocity fields were measured near the bottom at the same cross-shore location by using a stereoscopic particle image velocimetry system. These measurements showed that the near-bed flow field was characterized by large-scale, coherent flow structures that were the sources of most of the turbulent kinetic energy and turbulence stresses. The types of organized flow structures observed included vortices and downbursts of turbulence descending directly from above, lateral spreading of turbulent fluid along the bed, and formation of vortices in shear layers between fluid streams. A common feature of the organized flow structures near the bed was the large turbulence velocities in the longitudinal and transverse directions, which reflected the influence of a solid bottom on the breaking-wave-generated turbulence arriving at the bed.