考虑植物影响的波浪和波生流迭加条件下水动力特性数值模拟研究

海岸湿地是近海地区重要的生态系统,由于潮流、波浪尤其是非连续水流与植被的相互作用,导致该海域的水动力环境复杂多变。本文发展了一个深度平均二维波流耦合数学模型,模拟湿地海域波浪和波生沿岸流的运动特性。水动力模型中植物拖曳力作为源项放入动量方程中,在波浪作用量平衡方程增加波能耗散项用于解释水生植物对波浪产生的阻力作用。在动态耦合模型中,波浪模型为潮流模型提供波浪辐射应力、波高、波浪周期等数据信息,潮流模型为波浪模型提供计算的水位和流速,可以达到双向动态耦合。本文发展的波流耦合模型通过三个实验室试验数据加以验证,计算结果和实验数据吻合较好,在波浪、波生流和植物迭加条件下,所建模型能够有效地模拟波浪、沿岸流等不同现象。     

远区台风“三巴”对河口波浪增水和波生流影响数值模拟研究

波浪增水和波生流是河口泥沙输运、地貌演变和污染物扩散的重要动力之一,但目前关于远区台风影响下长江口波浪增水和波生流的研究比较缺乏。本文建立了覆盖东中国海的台风-天文潮-波浪耦合三维数值模型,研究了远区台风“三巴”对长江口波浪增水和波生流的影响。结果表明:波浪从台风中心向近岸传播过程中,能量耗散引起波浪作用力的衰减和辐射应力的增大,产生波浪增水,长江口波浪增水在0.05 ~0.20 m之间,占台风总增水值的15%~22%。从NW向入射的台风浪产生自北向南的波生沿岸流,垂向上呈现三维结构,平均流速在0.05~0.20 m/s之间,占风暴潮流的15%~50%,充分说明了远区台风可以对长江口波浪增水和波生流产生明显影响,研究成果可以为河口极值水位和流速计算、泥沙输运、水下三角洲地貌演变等研究提供参考。     

东山湾波浪对悬沙浓度场影响的数值模拟研究

研究了波致底切应力和二维辐射应力对悬沙的作用.首先对东山湾的水动力进行了数值模拟并与实测资料进行了对比检验,然后对东山湾悬浮泥沙进行了考虑波浪和不考虑波浪两种情况下的数值模拟并与实测资料进行了相关对比分析.在模式建立过程中,依据东山湾独特的窄口型半封闭河口海湾的特点,基于ECOMSED模式（2002）建立了东山湾三维水动力模型,并通过第三代海浪模式MASNUM加入了波浪对底切应力及辐射应力的影响,通过ECOMSED中的底边界层模型考虑了波浪增强底摩擦的作用,综合分析了东山湾的水动力及泥沙状况.结果表明在东山湾数值模拟中,该模式能较好地模拟这类海域的水动力及泥沙输运状况.在东山湾模拟计算中,潮流的作用强于波浪的作用,但考虑波浪因素后,泥沙模拟结果更好.在波浪的作用中,底切应力相比于二维辐射应力占有绝对的优势,两者相差2个量级以上,因此可以不考虑二维辐射应力的影响.     

九龙湾海域整治工程的水动力及水质影响数值研究

对威海九龙湾海域进行二维水动力-谱波和水动力-水质的耦合计算?分析,研究堤防建设工程前后潮流场、波浪场的变化,并对工程导致的水质变化进行数值计算、分析。潮流场的数值计算结果与实测潮位、流速、流向值进行对比,验证了该模型的准确性。计算结果表明,工程建设对海域潮流场的影响主要集中在距工程位置1.3km范围以内海域;工程建设改变了周边的波浪传播方向,使得掩护范围内的水域的波浪作用明显减弱,有利于后方岸滩的保护;施工期所产生悬浮泥沙对海洋环境的影响主要位于施工区1km范围内,其范围以外海域受到的影响不大。     

双台子河口区悬沙分布和运移特征

利用海流与悬沙含量实测资料相结合的方法，对双台子河口悬沙运动进行分析。结果表明本区含沙量与波浪、潮流等水动力关系密切，双台子河悬浮泥沙中的细颗粒物质经落潮流搬运至较深水域的潮道和浅海进行沉积，泥沙入海沉积后，接受海洋水动力作用的改造，部分细颗粒物质在水动力作用下会再次起动、运移。悬浮泥沙中的细颗粒物质主要有两个来源：一是波浪、潮流输运而来的大辽河、大凌河等河流物质，二是波浪、潮流对周边海域沉积物质的搬运。1990--2002年研究区整体处于淤积状态，淤积物主要为粒径在2～4Φ的粗颗粒物质，这些物质主要来自于波浪、潮流对河口潮滩的侵蚀、冲刷。     

考虑波浪辐射应力的潮流泥沙数学模型

根据海岸河口地区潮流、波浪、泥沙的运动特点及其相互作用机制,考虑了波浪场产生的"波浪辐射应力"和"波流挟沙力"动力要素对潮流场和泥沙运动的影响,在泥沙扩散方程中考虑了紊动水流作用,采用有限元加权集中质量法,建立了考虑波浪作用的潮流泥沙数学模型,并利用锦州港港区的潮流及泥沙资料对模型进行了验证。验证结果表明,潮位吻合良好,流速、流向、含沙量分布基本相似。在此基础上,模拟了工程建设前后,港区附近潮流场和泥沙淤积的变化,分析了泥沙骤淤现象。模拟结果表明,该数学模型能够适用于海岸河口地区潮流、泥沙的模拟,为波浪作用下潮流场和泥沙淤积的预测提供一种新的模拟方法,具有良好的应用前景。     

连云港地区淤泥质海岸近岸带水体含沙量的横向分布

本文以连云港为例,将淤泥质岸滩泥沙运动归结为二种基本的物理过程:在破波带内,波浪掀沙造成泥沙悬浮;在破波带外,水体含沙量来源于破波带内悬浮泥沙在潮流作用下的扩散运移。从波高的统计分布等出发,按波能法概念提出了破波带内水体含沙量横向分布表达式;破波带被视为无数泥沙扩散线源的迭加,由此建立破波带外水体含沙量横向分布的表达式。由以上两表达式算得的破波带内、外水体含沙量分布与实测结果基本一致。     

分段式造波机生成波浪内外部结构的一致性分析

用60个波高仪组成2m×2m的方阵,同步测量波面过程,用Doppler声学流速仪获得了二维正向和斜向规则波、二维正向和斜向随机波以及三维随机波浪场中不同水深处的同步Euler水质点速度各方向分量的高精度的时间过程资料.以此为出发点,讨论了分段式造波机生成波浪的周期分布特征,发现三维随机波浪周期分布的μ值与二维随机波浪比较有明显增大的趋势.分别从速度合矢量方向与波向的吻合程度(对二维波浪)、"多点波面"组合与"波面-水质点速度"组合两种方式得到方向谱的吻合程度(对三维随机波浪)等不同角度,论证了分段式造波机产生的波浪的内外部结构的一致性.     

大亚湾大鹏澳菱角石沿岸泥沙动态

本文根据大亚湾大鹏澳菱角石沿岸的波浪、潮流和泥沙资料,探讨了菱角石沿岸泥沙来源、泥沙活动水深和破波带,估算了破波带沿岸输沙率和非破波带底沙单宽输沙率,说明了沿岸泥沙运移以破波带沿岸输沙为主,验证了赵子丹提出的估算沿岸输沙率的关系曲线的可靠性。     

自然海滩的波浪和流──一个准三维数值模型

在海滩上一个理想的精密泥沙输移模型必须对研究区域的波候和波成流有准确完善的描述。作为海岸过程的更完全模型的第一步，本文概括了详细的波浪和流的计算的不同方面，开发出一个基于PC机的准三维模型。而且通过在模拟的无限长自然海滩上的实验室实验予以校准。实验是在多种波浪条件下进行的，如规则和随机长峰波区域及两种粒径的砂。     

Dynamic Analysis of Turret-Moored FPSO System in Freak Wave

Freak wave is the common wave which has significant wave height and irregular wave shape, and it is easy to damage offshore structure extremely. The FPSOs (Floating Production Storage and Offloading) suffer from the environment loads, including the freak wave. The freak waves were generated based on the improved phase modulation model, and the coupling model of FPSO-SPM (Single Point Mooring) was established by considering internal-turret FPSO and its mooring system. The dynamic response characteristics of both FPSO and SPM affected by the freak wave were analyzed in the time domain. According to the results, the freak waves generated by original phase modulation model mainly affect the 2nd-order wave loads. However, the freak waves which are generated by random frequencies phase modulation model affect both 1st-order and 2nd-order wave loads on FPSO. What is more, compared with the irregular waves, the dynamic responses of mooring system are larger in the freak waves, but its amplitude lags behind the peak of the freak wave.     

Generation of long barotropic waves by moving baric disturbances in a system of basins connected by a channel

We consider long barotropic waves in a system of two rectangular basins connected by a channel in the case where waves are generated by the moving region of disturbances of atmospheric pressure passing above one of the basins. By using a numerical model, we compute the characteristics of the wave process for various values of the parameters of this system. The results of numerical calculations are compared with the corresponding characteristics obtained for the case of a closed basin. We also analyze the distinctive features of long-wave processes induced in the presence of the channel. Translated by Peter V. Malyshev and Dmitry V. Malyshev     

台风浪模拟预报中的风场比较研究

在对模拟台风浪时海浪模式常用的经验模型风场和多重嵌套中尺度气象数值模式风场的结构和时间演变特征进行对比分析的基础上,分别采用这两种风场资料,应用最新版本的第三代海浪模式SWAN对Winnie(1997)引起的台风浪进行了模拟,将模拟的有效波高与TOPEX/POSEIDON和ERS-2卫星高度计资料作了详细的对比分析。结果表明,经验模型风场对实际台风风场的刻画存在诸多缺陷,这些缺陷对于台风浪的准确模拟产生了不可忽视的影响,采用模式风场试验的模拟效果优于采用模型风场的试验。论文提出了在运用海浪模式模拟台风浪时用数值模式模拟风场替代经验模型风场的必要性。     

Taylor-Görtler vortices expected in the air flow on sea surface waves—I

Taylor-Grörtler vortices are longitudinal vortices resulting from a centrifugal instability. They are generated in the flow having a curved streamline with an increasing velocity in the direction of decreasing curvature.It is shown that the air flow above wind waves and swells also satisfies locally the condition of the centrifugal instability. Numerical calculations indicate the possibility of generation of Taylor-Görtler vortices on the trough of sea waves. For example, when a wind of about 12.2 m/s at 10-m level is blowing over sea waves of the wave length of 15 m like the swell, the critical water wave height beyond which the vortices may be generated is about 0.5 m, and the critical wave length and the height of center of the generated vortices are about 24 m and 3.7 m, respectively. Further, about the relations between the generation of vortices and wind waves, it is shown that the condition of their generation is satisfied at the trough of waves for early stages of the wave generation.In conclusion, it is expected that the Taylor-Görtler vortices change the wind profile along the sea surface, and also, play some part in the growth of wind waves, especially in the formation of their three dimensional structure.     

Hybrid Surface Waves from a Harmonic Perturbation Source

The problem of constructing uniform asymptotics of surface perturbations of far fields from a localized harmonic source in the flow of a heavy homogeneous fluid of infinite depth is considered. It is shown that the wave pattern of generated far fields at specific parameters is a system of hybrid wave disturbances that simultaneously possesses the properties of waves of two types: annular (transverse) and wedgeshaped (longitudinal) waves. The properties of the phase structure and wave fronts of the generated fields are studied. Uniform asymptotics of the solutions describing hybrid surface wave disturbances far from a harmonic source are constructed.     

A shipborne- type wave-height meter for oceangoing vessels, using microwave Doppler radar

A wave-height meter using a simple microwave Doppler radar,simeq10mW in power and 10.525 GHz in frequency, is proposed so that we can measure oceanic waves effectively while the ship is steaming. It was first applied to the measurement of the variation of water level generated in a wave tank, which suggested that it is adequately applicable to the measurement of oceanic waves. A field test was carried out off the cape of Nojimazaki by installing the Doppler radar 5 m above the sea level at the bow of the ship. The result agreed reasonably well with that measured simultaneously by the ultrasonic wave-height meter installed at the same position. Another test is running successfully on a larger ship with the wave-height meter installed at 9 m above the sea level. The significant wave height measured by the present meter is being compared with that observed visually by the navigation officers.     

基于纵横波保幅分离的粘弹介质弹性波正演模拟

地下介质往往表现为粘弹特性,研究基于粘弹假设的数值模拟方法对于正确认识地震波的传播规律和提高地震勘探精度具有重要意义。波动方程正演过程中纵横波的保幅解耦是研究准确的粘弹介质中地震波传播机理的前提,基于散度和旋度算子的纵横波解耦方法会使波场的相位和振幅产生畸变,且解耦后的波场在极性反转位置上无法与分离前混合波场各分量对应。在散度和旋度算子上再做一次梯度和旋度运算的波场分离方法虽然能够克服上述缺陷,但存在保幅性差等问题。本文从粘弹介质中的一阶速度-应力方程出发,推导了矢量纵横波分离的波数域表达式,结合有限差分思路给出了其在空间域的求解方法。本文方法利用纵横波的传播速度对现有的矢量波场分离方法进行振幅校正,并将校正结果分别作为纵波与横波对时间的二阶偏导,实现了粘弹介质中的纵横波分离。模型试算结果表明,本文方法能够克服现有方法的缺陷,获得更具保幅性的波场分离结果。     

圆形数值波浪水池斜向和多向入射波浪模拟研究

为了研究斜向入射波浪,基于三维不可压缩两相流模型,开发了一套圆形数值波浪水池数值模型。在圆形波浪水池中,通过源项造波法成功生成了任意入射方向的波浪,并且利用人工摩擦项模拟阻尼区以数值耗散反射波浪。模型基于嵌入式多块网格体系,采用FVM法(finite volume method)离散Navier-Stokes方程,VOF法(volume of fluid)追踪自由水面。试验结果表明,斜向入射波浪的模拟结果与理论值基本一致,圆形波浪水池在模拟斜向入射波浪时,有效区域的面积较传统波浪水池显著增大,而且有效区域受波浪入射角度的影响也较小。同时,通过叠加多列斜向入射波浪,模拟出了多向交叉波列,并通过与理论结果对比,发现其具有较高的精度。     

An Irregular Wave Maker of Active Absorption with VOF Method

A numerical irregular wave flume with active absorption of re-reflected waves is simulated by use of volume of fluid （VOF） method. An active ＇absorbing wave-maker based on linear wave theory is set on the left boundary of the wave flume. The progressive waves and the absorbing waves are generated simultaneously at the active wave generating-absorbing boundary. The absorbing waves are generated to eliminate the waves coming back to the generating boundary due to reflection from the outflow boundary and the structures. SIRW method proposed by Frigaard and Brorsen （1995） is used to separate the incident waves and reflected waves. The digital filters are designed based on the surface elevation signals of the two wave gauges. The corrected velocity of the wave-maker paddle is the output from the digital filter in real time. The numerical results of regular and irregular waves by the active absorbing-generating boundary are compared with the numerical results by the ordinary generating boundary to verify the performance of the active absorbing-generator boundary. The differences between the initial incident waves and the estimated incident waves are analyzed.