Field measurements of wave overtopping at the rubble mound breakwater of Rome–Ostia yacht harbour

This paper describes a new station for full-scale measurement of wave overtopping at the Rome yacht harbour rubble mound breakwater in Ostia (Italy) and the results of the successful first measurement campaign carried out during the winter season 2003–2004. The equipment and the research activities were supported by the EU project CLASH, focusing on scale effects for wave overtopping at coastal structures. The site is characterized by a very small tidal range, a long shallow foreshore and depth-limited breaking waves which interact with a shallow sloping porous rock structure. Overtopping water is collected by a steel tank installed on the crown slab behind the parapet wall. The measurement of water level variation inside the tank by means of two pressure transducers allows the calculation of individual overtopping volumes. Incident waves, sea levels and wind are also measured. During seven independent storms, more than 400 individual overtopping events were recorded and about 86 h of valid data are available. This extensive dataset is presented, discussed and then used for comparison with two commonly used overtopping prediction formulae based on small-scale model tests showing their tendency to underestimate the prototype results. A strong correlation between the hourly mean overtopping discharge and corresponding maximum volume is also presented. The paper generally confirms the validity of the approach used in Troch et al. (2004) [Troch, P., Geeraets, J., Van de Walle, B., De Rouck, J., Van Damme, L., Allsop, W., Franco, L., 2004. Full-scale wave overtopping measurements on the Zeebrugge rubble mound breakwater. Coastal Engineering 51, 609–628] for field measurement of wave overtopping.     

Prediction of Seaward Slope Recession in Berm Breakwaters Using M5' Machine Learning Approach

In the design process of berm breakwaters, their front slope recession has an inevitable rule in large number of model tests, and this parameter being studied. This research draws its data from Moghim's and Shekari's experiment results. These experiments consist of two different 2D model tests in two wave flumes, in which the berm recession to different sea state and structural parameters have been studied. Irregular waves with a JONSWAP spectrum were used in both test series. A total of 412 test results were used to cover the impact of sea state conditions such as wave height, wave period, storm duration and water depth at the toe of the structure, and structural parameters such as berm elevation from still water level, berm width and stone diameter on berm recession parameters. In this paper, a new set of equations for berm recession is derived using the M5' model tree as a machine learning approach. A comparison is made between the estimations by the new formula and the formulae recently given by other researchers to show the preference of new M5' approach.     

Action of Cnoidal Waves on Vertical Walls

Based on the 2nd order cnoidal wave theory, the characters of shallow water standing waves and their action on vertical walls are studied in this paper. The theoretical expressions of the wave surface elevation in front of and the wave pressure on the vertical wall are obtained. In order to verify the theoretical results, model tests were made in the State Key Laboratory of Coastal and Offshore Engineering at DUT. For the wave surface elevation in front of the wall and the wave forces on the wall at the moment when the wave surface at the wall surface goes down to the bottom of the wave trough, the calculated results coincide quite well with the experimental results. For the wave forces on the wall at the moment when the wave surface at the wall surface goes up to the top of the wave crest, the theoretical expressions are modified by the experimental results. For the convenience of practical use, calculations are made for the wave conditions which usually occur in enginering practice by use of the inves     

An investigation of breaking wave pressures on inclined walls

Shoreline structures are subjected to breaking wave loads which may reach 690 KN/m². One possibility to reduce these loadings is to slope the exposed surface backwards. The possible amount of reduction in breaking wave loads is, however, unclear, and recent model tests indicated that sloped walls might be exposed to higher loads than are vertical walls. Within the Wave Energy Group at Queen's University Belfast, tests on a 1/36 model of a shoreline wave power station were conducted in order to assess the influence of front wall inclination on the magnitude of breaking wave pressures. It was found that breaking wave pressures decrease from 100% for the vertical wall to 44% for a 32.7° backwards inclined wall and to 64% for a 32.7° forward inclined wall. From the results it was concluded that a maximum pressure of 105% can be expected for a 10° forward inclined wall. Design recommendations were found to be conservative.     

Experimental studies of a damaged ship section in forced heave motion

This work documents a detailed series of experiments performed in a wave flume on a thin walled prismatic hull form. The model consists of a rectangular opening located on the side. The length of the model is slightly smaller than the flume breadth to achieve two-dimensional (2D) behavior in the experiments. Forced oscillatory heave tests in calm water have been carried out by varying the model-motion parameters and examining both intact and damaged conditions. Video recordings, measurements of the wave elevation inside the damaged compartment and of the force on the model were performed in all the experiments. The effect of damage opening in the model on hydrodynamic loads is examined by comparing with an intact section. A theoretical analysis is used to explain the behavior of added mass and damping coefficients in heave for a 2D damaged section. The presented results demonstrate occurrence of sloshing and piston mode resonances in the tests and their influence on the hydrodynamics loads of a damaged ship. Detailed physical investigations are presented at these resonance frequencies for the damaged section. Effect of filling level in the damage compartment, damage-opening length and air compressibility in the airtight compartment is examined. Nonlinear effects are documented and appear dominant, especially, for lowest filling level where we have shallow-water depth conditions in the damaged compartment. Resonance phenomena that can lead to significant local loads are identified for the shallow water condition. Air compressibility in the airtight compartment and floodwater act as a coupled system and influence inflow/outflow of floodwater in the compartment. It has a significant effect on local floodwater behavior in the damaged compartment.     

Experimental Study on Stability of Breakwaters with Penetrating Box Foundations

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重力式与碟形网箱的锚绳受力特性比较

针对常见的重力式、碟形和拟碟形网箱在不同下潜深度状态下的锚绳受力特性进行了试验研究.试验共设模型4组,分别在纯流、纯波以及波流联合条件下进行.测力通过系缚于锚绳底端的4个拉力传感器获得.试验结果表明水流作用力的大小在很大程度上受网箱结构形式的影响,而在波浪条件下其影响相对较小.重力式网箱的配重形式及下潜形式对网箱的受力具有重要影响.另外,网箱在波流组合条件下的受力并不是纯流及纯波单独作用下的简单叠加.最后,在综合比较网箱价格和性能的前提下,对网箱结构形式的选择进行了一些讨论,并提出若干建议.     

减少航道外波浪集聚对策研究

进港航道开挖引起波能重新分布 ,导致航道外近区域波能聚集 ,波高增大 ,从而影响防波堤稳定及港内泊稳条件。文章介绍了 Boussinesq方程的推导过程和发展过程 ,基于深水和缓变地形的色散关系 ,建立了波浪数学模型。该模型可用于研究深水和浅水地区波浪的浅水变形、折射、绕射和反射。并提出了减少波能聚集、降低堤前波高的多种措施。结合大窑湾港实际工程 ,经过多方面的数物模比选 ,利用数学模型优化出一种可行的喇叭口航道开挖方案并付诸实施 ,降低了防波堤的堤前波高 ,满足了预期的设计要求。     

A performance test of nearshore wave height prediction with CLASH datasets

The CLASH database was analyzed for extraction of a set of data having the measured wave heights at both the deep station and the toe of the structure for wave overtopping tests, yielding 1214 data from 29 datasets. Wave heights in front of the toe of the structure were estimated with the Goda formulas and compared with the measured ones. Comparison yielded the overall mean of 1.106 with the standard deviation of 0.155 for the ratio of the estimated to the measured heights, which support the use of the Goda formulas for prediction of nearshore wave heights. Another set of 1215 data having the measured wave heights at the deep station and the wave heights calculated with the SWAN model was also extracted from the CLASH database. A comparative test of the SWAN model using the wave height estimated with the Goda formulas in lieu of the measured height indicated the performance of the SWAN model being similar to that of the Goda formulas, but a tendency of underestimation was noticed in shallow water on a beach of very gentle slope.     

深水斜坡堤胸墙波浪力研究进展

总结了近年来在斜坡堤胸墙前波浪破碎形态、波浪作用分布、胸墙受力设计等方面研究的进展,分析了斜坡堤上胸墙波浪力的计算方法。已有研究工作表明,深水情况下斜坡堤胸墙波浪作用分布与传统的均布形式有差异,《海港水文规范》中关于斜坡堤胸墙波浪力的计算方法在深水中的适用性应进一步研究。     

Discussion of “A function to determine wavelength from deep in to shallow water based on the length of the cnoidal wave at breaking” by J.P. Le Roux

An empirical modification to the Airy equation for wave celerity reduces to the expression for solitary waves in shallow water whilst retaining its usual form for deep water. The equation yields celerities in reasonable agreement with those for cnoidal waves in intermediate water depths. In this aspect, it is similar to the work described by Le Roux [Le Roux, J.P., 2007. A function to determine wavelength from deep into shallow water based on the length of the cnoidal wave at breaking. Coastal Engineering 54, 770–774]. The empirical modification has been widely applied in computer programs over the past 30 years.     

Maximum run-up,breaking conditions and dynamical forces in the swash zone: a boundary value approach

On the basis of the approximate analytical solution for the nonlinear shallow water equations of Antuono and Brocchini [M. Antuono & M. Brocchini, The boundary value problem for the nonlinear shallow water equation, Stud. Appl. Maths, 119, 71–91 (2007).], we propose useful regression curves for the prediction of maximum run-up and dynamical forces in the swash zone on a frictionless, uniformly sloping beach. For the first time the dependence of the results on both the wave height and the wave steepness is analyzed in detail providing formulae able to describe a wide class of wave inputs. Finally, the regression formulae are validated through comparison with maximum run-up laws and breaking conditions already available in the literature, the present model results appearing to better account for nonlinear effects.     

The applicability of the shallow water equations for modelling violent wave overtopping

The shallow water equations (SWE) have been used to model a series of experiments examining violent wave overtopping of a near-vertical sloping structure with impacting wave conditions. A finite volume scheme was used to solve the shallow water equations. A monotonic reconstruction method was applied to eliminate spurious oscillations and ensure proper treatment of bed slope terms. Both the numerical results and physical observations of the water surface closely followed the relevant Rayleigh probability distributions. However, the numerical model overestimated the wave heights and suffered from the lack of dispersion within the shallow water equations. Comparisons made on dimensionless parameters for the overtopping discharge and percentage of waves overtopping between the numerical model and the experimental observations indicated that for the lesser impacting waves, the shallow water equations perform satisfactorily and provide a good alternative to computationally more expensive methods.     

海啸波传播的线性和非线性特征及近海陆架效应影响的数值研究

浅水方程被广泛应用于海啸预警报业务及研究,而针对线性浅水方程与非线性浅水方程在不同海区水深地形条件下的适用范围、计算效率问题是海啸研究人员急需了解的。本文应用基于浅水方程的海啸数值预报模型就海啸波在南海、东海传播的线性、非线性特征以及陆架对其传播之影响进行了数值分析研究。海啸波在深水的传播表征为强线性特征,此时线性系统对海啸波幅的模拟计算具有较高的精度和效率,而弱的非线性特征及弱的色散特征对海啸波幅的预报影响甚微,可以忽略不计。海啸波传播至浅水大陆架后受海底坡度变化、海底粗糙度等因素影响,波动的非线性效应迅速传播、积累,与线性浅水方程计算的海啸波相比表现出较大差异,主要表现为:在南海区,水深小于100m时,海啸波首波以后的系列波动非线性特征比较明显,两者波幅差别较大,但首波波幅的区别不大,因此对于该区域在不考虑海啸爬高的情况下,应用线性系统计算得到的海啸波幅也可满足海啸预警报的要求;在东海区由于陆架影响,海啸波非线性特征明显增强,水深小于100m区域,首波及其后系列波波幅均差异较大,故在该区域必须考虑海啸波非线性作用。本文就底摩擦项对海啸波首波波幅的影响进行了数值对比分析,结果表明:底摩擦作用对海啸波首波波幅影响仅作用于小于100m水深。最后,该文通过敏感性试验,初步分析了陆架宽度及陆架边缘深度对海啸波波幅的影响,得出海啸波经陆架传播共振、变形后,海啸波幅的放大或减小与陆架的宽度及陆架边缘水深有关。     

破碎波冲击直立桩柱的大比尺试验研究

波浪破碎是海洋中最常见的现象之一,其能够对海洋中的结构物产生巨大的波浪力作用。本文在大比尺波浪水槽通过聚焦波的方法生成了极端波浪和不同破碎阶段的破碎波浪,并对其冲击桩柱过程中的点压力进行了测量,进而采用连续小波变换的方法,对桩柱上点压力的分布及大小进行了细致分析。结果表明,多次重复试验下,相比非破碎极端波浪,破碎极端波浪产生的点压力离散性更强;波浪破碎程度越大,测点位置越靠近波峰,则点压力离散程度越大;破碎波的最大点压力出现在1.2倍的最大波面附近,且其大小可达3倍的最大静水压力;基于点压力小波谱,不同破碎阶段破碎波产生冲击作用不同,对于波浪作用桩柱前波浪已经发生破碎的情况,其冲击区域更大,点压力分布更复杂;而对于桩面破碎的情况,其造成的波浪总力更大。     

浅水区锋面的流场结构

用一垂向二维的诊断模式,研究了浅水区锋面的流场结构。参照James模式并结合杭州湾具体情形来确定垂向涡动粘性系数,得到了与实测结果相一致的浅水区(杭州湾)锋面的流场结构。研究表明,在探讨浅水区锋面流场时必须选取合理的模式;而深水锋面流场结构对所采用的模式依赖性不大;锋面的流场结构不仅与锋面的强度有关,而且与锋面的结构有关。     

基于2010—2020年东海风浪统计数据的海上风电吸力桶基础动荷载承载特性

为了得到桶基础承受风、浪动荷载的承载性能,结合我国东海地质条件,统计中国东海2010—2020年浅、深海风速和最大海浪数据,通过计算得到风浪荷载并制成ABAQUS软件幅值曲线施加到海上风电吸力桶基础上,分析了吸力桶基础在动荷载作用下的承载特性。结果表明：吸力桶基础受风、浪荷载影响明显,桶基础迎力面受到风浪动荷载产生拉拔现象。在浅海区,桶基础在风浪荷载作用下桶身自上而下变形不协调,风浪荷载最大的10月份桶基础迎力面最大位移超出了规范0.02D的限制,基础失稳;桶基础背力面受压变形较小。在深海区,桶基础在风浪荷载作用下桶身自上而下变形相对协调,施加风浪荷载后桶体迎力面最大位移为14.9 mm,整体上迎力面位移比背力面位移大4 mm,桶体处于稳定状态。相较浅海区的吸力桶单桶结构,深海区吸力桶结构由于尺寸增加,桶体的稳定性得到提高,说明吸力桶结构的尺寸对稳定性起决定性作用。     

双消浪室局部开孔沉箱防波堤反射特性的理论与试验研究

双消浪室局部开孔沉箱防波堤具有低反射、结构受力小、适宜较大水深和工程造价低等优点。为明确双消浪室局部开孔沉箱水动力特性的主要影响因素,采用理论分析和物理模型试验相结合的方法,对规则波和不规则波作用下双消浪室局部开孔沉箱防波堤的反射特性进行研究。基于势流理论,建立规则波和不规则波对局部开孔沉箱防波堤作用的三维解析解,采用二次压力损失边界条件考虑沉箱开孔墙对波浪运动的影响,利用周期性边界条件考虑防波堤结构沿长度方向的周期性变化。开展相应规则波和不规则波物理模型试验,验证理论模型的合理性。通过算例分析,研究不同波浪要素和结构参数对防波堤反射特性的影响。研究表明:双消浪室局部开孔沉箱相对消浪室宽度取值为0.08~0.20,沉箱前墙开孔率大于后墙开孔率时,防波堤在较大波浪频率范围内消波效果显著;当前后墙的开孔率相等时,防波堤反射系数的最小值随着开孔率增大而减小。     

Pseudo-Static Elasto-Plastic Cyclic Creep Model and Cyclic Stability of Offshore Soft Foundation

The accumulative shear deformation of soft clays under cyclic loads is considered as pseudo-staticcreep.A pseudo-static elasto-plastic cyclic creep model is developed based on the visco-elasto-plastic theory.Theparameters in the model are determined by cyclic triaxial soil tests.A method for analyzing the stability of offshoresoft foundation under wave loads is given by combining the model with pseudo-static creep analysis.An exampleis analyzed by the method.The results show that the horizontal and vertical stability of foundations under waveloads can be analyzed by it and the analytical results are qualitatively consistent with the observed failure modes ofshallow foundations.     

Incorporating irregular nonlinear waves in coupled simulation and reliability studies of offshore wind turbines

Design of an offshore wind turbine requires estimation of loads on its rotor, tower and supporting structure. These loads are obtained by time-domain simulations of the coupled aero-servo-hydro-elastic model of the wind turbine. Accuracy of predicted loads depends on assumptions made in the simulation models employed, both for the turbine and for the input wind and wave conditions. Currently, waves are simulated using a linear irregular wave theory that is not appropriate for nonlinear waves, which are even more pronounced in shallow water depths where wind farms are typically sited. The present study investigates the use of irregular nonlinear (second-order) waves for estimating loads on the support structure (monopile) of an offshore wind turbine. We present the theory for the irregular nonlinear model and incorporate it in the commonly used wind turbine simulation software, FAST, which had been developed by National Renewable Energy Laboratory (NREL), but which had the modeling capability only for irregular linear waves. We use an efficient algorithm for computation of nonlinear wave elevation and kinematics, so that a large number of time-domain simulations, which are required for prediction of long-term loads using statistical extrapolation, can easily be performed. To illustrate the influence of the alternative wave models, we compute loads at the base of the monopile of the NREL 5MW baseline wind turbine model using linear and nonlinear irregular wave models. We show that for a given environmental condition (i.e., the mean wind speed and the significant wave height), extreme loads are larger when computed using the nonlinear wave model. We finally compute long-term loads, which are required for a design load case according to the International Electrotechnical Commission guidelines, using the inverse first-order reliability method. We discuss a convergence criteria that may be used to predict accurate 20-year loads and discuss wind versus wave dominance in the load prediction. We show that 20-year long-term loads can be significantly higher when the nonlinear wave model is used.