Use of Federal Sand for Beach Nourishment and Shore Protection Projects

Coastal shoreline protection and beach nourishment are significant issues for coastal states along the Atlantic and Gulf coasts. In some areas, there is a critical need to identify suitable sources of sand for possible use in public works projects for coastal protection. The continental shelf contains large resources of sand and gravel that could be used to support such projects. The U.S. Department of the Interior's (DOI) Minerals Management Service (MMS) provides policy direction and guidance for development of the resources located on the federal portion of the continental shelf. This article highlights the MMS's Sand Program, focusing on its cooperative resource and environmental studies with several coastal states, significant milestones and accomplishments, and anticipated activities in 1998 and beyond. Management of sand resources on the federal portion of the continental shelf has been made easier by a federal state partnership concept. Using this cooperative concept, joint projects are being conducted to investigate offshore sand resources, potential sites, extraction methods, and related environmental conditions. The MMS has procedures for negotiating sand agreements under the Outer Continental Shelf Lands Act (OCSLA) and ensuring that the resources are developed in an environ mentally sound manner. The authority to negotiate with project sponsors, an important recent change in the OCSLA, also resides with the MMS. This 1992 change in OCSLA facilitates the use of Outer Continental Shelf (OCS)resources for public projects. Further, the MMS is authorized to assess a fee based on the value of the resource and the public interest served. The MMS has worked with local sponsors and authorized the use of OCS sand for two projects. However, additional resource and environmental projects, as well as negotiated agreements, are anticipated within the near future with states and local governments along the Atlantic and Gulf coasts.     

大陆坡脚确定原则与方法

大陆坡脚是大陆边缘的一个重要地形特征,是沿海国扩展其大陆架权利和划定其200海里以外大陆架外部界限的基础,也是大陆架界限委员会审议沿海国划界案时特别关注的重要技术参数。《联合国海洋法公约》第76条大陆架制度的制定源于典型的被动大陆边缘。但由于全球大陆边缘的多样性和复杂性,特别是后期构造活动、沉积作用对大陆边缘的改造与影响,海底地形地貌异常复杂多变,导致大陆坡脚的识别非常困难。加上各沿海国为获得最大范围的外大陆架,对大陆坡脚的相关规定进行有利于自己的解释,使得大陆坡脚的确定成了外大陆架划界中一个颇具争议的热点问题。本文基于对《联合国海洋法公约》和《大陆架界限委员会科学和技术准则》对大陆坡脚的规定,结合不同类型大陆边缘的地质特征和各沿海国划界实践,对陆坡基部区的确定、坡度变化最大之点的选取以及相反证明规则的适用性等问题进行了探讨。     

大陆架界限委员会审议划界案的原则和方法——委员会建议摘要案例分析

由于全球大陆边缘地貌和地质特征的复杂性,且《联合国海洋法公约》(以下简称《公约》)第76条对200海里以外大陆架外部界限划定的规则存在一定的模糊性,导致大陆架外部界限的划定极其复杂。根据《公约》设立的大陆架界限委员会(以下简称委员会)负责审议沿海国提交的划界案并给出建议,委员会在外大陆架划界方面发挥重要作用。截止2012年12月底,委员会一共收到沿海国65份划界案,目前已完成其中18份划界案的审议工作并给出了建议。本文系统分析了各委员会建议摘要,对委员会在审议划界案时采用的划界原则、审议的关键技术问题等做了综合分析总结,以便为我国今后外大陆架划界和积极应对侵害我国海洋权益的他国划界主张提供参考和借鉴。     

The Australian continental shelf: Has Australia's high-latitude diplomacy paid off?’

The Commission on the Limits of the Continental Shelf has granted Australia extended continental shelf areas around two of its sub-Antarctic island groups, and these extend into the Antarctic Treaty area. The overlap potentially raises conflict between Australian and Antarctic interests. Australia's submission included and expressly excluded Antarctic data and its high-latitude diplomacy paid off, but its next steps will be crucial to gaining acceptance by other Antarctic Treaty parties. It is likely that any resource exploitation will stop at the fence (60° South) during the life of the Treaty.     

China's exclusive economic zone and continental shelf: developments,problems, and prospects

China promulgated its Law on the Exclusive Economic Zone and the Continental Shelf in 1998 after it had ratified the United Nations Convention on the Law of the Sea in 1996. By so doing, China has formally established a legal regime for its exclusive economic zone and continental shelf. However, China has much to do in implementing the above law. Domestically, it needs some detailed regulations for the implementation; and regionally China has to negotiate with its neighboring countries on the maritime boundary delimitation of the exclusive economic zone and the continental shelf.     

Seismic evidence for the preservation of several stacked Pleistocene coastal barrier/lagoon systems on the Gulf of Valencia continental shelf (western Mediterranean)

The focus of this study is the analysis of coastal sand barriers and associated coastal lagoons on the inner continental shelf of the Gulf of Valencia (western Mediterranean), based on two W–E seismic profiles recorded seaward of the Albufera de Valencia coastal lagoon. Seismic facies identified include a number of coastal sand barriers with landward lagoons draped by contemporary continental shelf deposits. The barrier systems have been grouped into two sedimentary systems tracts, the older one corresponding to a prograding/aggrading highstand systems tract involving at least four paleo-coastal sand barrier/lagoon systems, followed landward by a transgressive systems tract comprising three such systems. All the systems have been allocated a Tyrrhenian age, the formation of individual barrier systems having been associated with successive sea-level stillstands, and their present-day position being explained by the very high regional subsidence rate. In summary, this study demonstrates that the Quaternary stratigraphic record of the Gulf of Valencia inner continental shelf is composed of littoral sand facies, in particular coastal sand barrier and lagoon deposits. These findings are in agreement with corresponding observations on other continental shelves of the western Mediterranean, showing that the formation of coastal sand barriers was a characteristic feature of this region during the Quaternary.     

Methods and procedures to determine the outer limits of the continental shelf beyond 200 nautical miles

This paper establishes techniques and methods to determine a variety of boundaries associated with 200 nautical miles beyond the continental shelf. The methods, based on topography, slope and second-deriv- ative profile integrated analysis, are now able to identify automatically the foot of the continental slope （FOS）. By analyzing the sedimentary profile, the points of 1% sediment thickness are recognized. Through the intersection, cut, deletion and mergence calculation of the extrapolated data set of fLxed-point series, the method succeeds in generating automatically the extrapolated boundaries, including the FOS＋60 M line, the 350 M line, and the 2500 m＋100 M line. In addition, based on the automatic analysis of the topographic profile, it can be applied to determine rapidly the points of maximum water depth. Taking the northern Okinawa Trough （OT） as an example, these methods are used to calculate and examine the boundaries in- cluded in the Submission by the People＇s Republic of China Concerning the Outer Limits of the Continental Shelf beyond 200 Nautical miles in Part of the East China Sea （ECS）; the boundaries thus derived have a solid scientific and rational basis.     

Australian practice in respect of the continental shelf beyond 200 nautical miles

Australia׳s remote location and position on the vast Indo-Australian plate mean that possesses one of the largest continental shelf areas in the world. The criteria in Article 76 of the United Nations Convention on the Law of the Sea permit the claiming on continental shelf to 200 nautical miles from territorial sea baselines, and if certain criteria are met based on the configuration and content of the seabed, to distances beyond. During the negotiations at UNCLOS III, Australia was a strong proponent of this extended shelf regime, as it was likely to have large areas beyond 200 nautical miles. Article 76 provides for a number of requirements to be met for a coastal State to assert sovereign rights over areas of continental shelf beyond 200 nautical miles, including a ten year deadline from becoming a party. This placed a disproportionate burden upon Australia, as it faced the same ten year time frame to lodge data with the Commission on the Limits on the Continental Shelf (CLCS) as other States with much smaller areas in issue. Australia also chose not to rely upon measures agreed between State parties to effectively extend this deadline, and to limit the requirements to be met within it. This paper looks at how Australian authorities approached the difficult task, while maintaining the standards required for data by the CLCS, and how the task was ultimately implemented. It also examines how the extended continental shelf arrangements interacted with the rest of Australia׳s law of the sea practice and maritime boundaries with other States. For example, after the entry into force of the Convention, Australia negotiated two maritime boundaries with neighbouring States that each explicitly dealt with areas beyond 200 nautical miles. It concludes with consideration of what issues remain unresolved in respect of the Australian continental shelf beyond 200 nautical miles. The paper will conclude at how Australia׳s implementation has raised new issues with neighbouring States, including an unresolved dispute in the South Pacific Ocean.     

U.S. Minerals Management Service (MMS) Prelease Geological and Geophysical (G & G) Data Acquisition: A 20-Year Retrospective, 1976-1996

Since 1976, the Minerals Management Service (MMS) has administered its prelease geological and geophysical (G & G) data acquisition program through Title 30, Part 251, of the Code of Federal Regulations, which govern permitting, acquisitions, and data release. Leading indicators of offshore oil and gas activity are the number of permits issued to industry, associated mileage, and expenditures. Over the last 20 years, permit activity has indicated that most of the oil and gas surveying has been in the Gulf of Mexico, where 80 % of all permits have been issued, followed by Alaska (10 %), the Pacific (7 %), and the Atlantic (3 %). These statistics correlate with the dominant position of the central and western Gulf of Mexico areas in oil and gas activity. More than 95 % of all permits were issued for geophysical exploration, mostly for two-dimensional (2-D) common-depth-point (CDP) seismic data. However, over the last 10 years, permits for three-dimensional (3-D) seismic data have averaged 25 % of all geophysical permits and, by 1996, made up approximately half of all geophysical permits offshore-wide. Between 1976 and the early 1990s, industry shot approximately 500,000 linemiles of 2-D CDP data each year on the Outer Continental Shelf (OCS). Of that total, MMS acquired approximately50,000 line-miles annually. In the 1990s, parallel with industry, MMS increased its acquisition of 3-D seismic data in concert with the development and use of interactive workstations. The majority of 2-D and 3-D data have been acquired in the Gulf of Mexico by a ratio of 2:1 over Alaska, the next largest data inventory. With regard to MMS expenditures for G & G data, from 1976 through the 1980s, Alaska, having more offshore area than the other three regions combined, had the largest portion. However, in the 1900s, the vast majority of expenditures have been in the Gulf of Mexico. Over the years, permit totals, mileage acquired, and expenditures for data reflect trends of oil and gas pricing, limitations of offshore moratoria, and a shift of industry emphasis to foreign theaters.     

Seismic refraction measurements on the Norwegian continental shelf between Andøya and Fugløybanken

A seismic refraction survey along nine profiles has been carried out on the Norwegian continental shelf in the area between Andøya and Fugløybanken (69°–71°N). In all but one of the profiles the shelf is found to be covered with layered sediments. Average velocities are 1.85, 2.20, 2,55, 3.25, and 3.90 km/s probably representing sediments of Cenozoic and Mesozoic ages. An average velocity of 5.25 km/s represents a basement, which probably is the seaward continuation of the onshore Caledonian rocks. Except for an apparent depressional area just north of Andøya the sedimentary layers appear to dip towards the shelf edge. On the outer part of the shelf the 2.20 km/s layer appears at the sea-floor while more complex structures are found on the inner part of the shelf.Publication No. 3 in NTNF's Continental Shelf Project.     

Marine Sand Resources Offshore Israel

The continental margin of northern Sinai and Israel, up to Haifa Bay, is the northeastern limb of the submarine Nile Delta Cone. It is made up predominantly of clastics from the Nile and its predecessors. The continental shelf and coastal plain of Israel are built of a series of shore-parallel ridges composed of carbonate-cemented quartz sandstone (locally named kurkar), a lithification product of windblown sands that were piled up into dunes during the Pleistocene. The drop in global sea level and regression during the last glacial period exposed the continental shelf to subaerial erosion and created a widespread regional erosional unconformity which is expressed as a prominent seismic reflector at the top of the kurkar layers. The subsequent Holocene transgression abraded much of the westernmost kurkar ridges, drowned their cores, and covered the previous lowstand deposits with marine sands, which were in turn covered by a sequence of sub-Recent clayey silts. The Mediterranean coasts of Sinai and Israel are part of the Nile littoral cell. Since the building of the Aswan dams the sand supplied to Israel's coastal system is derived mainly from erosion of the Nile Delta and from sands offshore Egypt that are stirred up by storm waves. The sands are transported by longshore and offshore currents along the coasts of northern Sinai and Israel. Their volume gradually declines northward with distance from their Nile source. The longshore transport terminates in Haifa Bay where some sand is trapped, and the test escapes to deeper water by bottom currents and through submarine canyons, thus denying Nile-derived sand supply to the 40-km-long 'Akko-Rosh Haniqra shelf. The sand balance along Israel's coastal zone is a product of natural processes and human intervention. Losses due to the outgoing longshore transport, seaward escape, and landward wind transport exceed the natural gains from the incoming longshore transport and the abrasion of the coastal cliffs. The deficit is aggravated by the construction of (1) seaward-projecting structures that trap sands on the upstream side and (2) offshore detached breakwaters that trap sands between themselves and the coast. The negative sand balance is manifested by the removal of sand from the seabed and the consequent exposure of archaeological remains that were hitherto protected by it. The sediments that escape seaward from the longshore transport system form a 2.5- to 4-km-wide sandy apron adjacent to the shore that extends to where the water is 30 - 40 m deep. The apron's slope (0.5 - 0.8) is steeper than the theoretical equilibrium slope for the median grain-size diameter in this zone (0.1 - 0.3 mm). The beach sands and the apron's surficial sands are well sorted. Their grain size decreases with distance from shore, from 0.2 - 0.3 mm nearshore to 0.11 - 0.16 mm by the drowned ridge. The coarse-grained fraction consists of skeletal debris (commonly 5 - 12% carbonate matter) and wave-milled kurkar grains (locally named zifzif). In deeper water, the basal sands underlying the fine-grained sediment cover consist of 1- to 30-cm layers whose composition ranges from silty sands to various types of sands (fine, medium, coarse, and gravelly) to zifzif. For the most part, they contain large amounts of skeletal debris (20 - 60%) and small fragments of kurkar. Two types of kurkar rock were encountered offshore: a well-sorted, fine- to medium-grained (0.074 - 0.300 mm) lithified dune sand with variable amounts of carbonate cement, ranging from hard rock of low permeability to loose sand; and a porous sandstone made up predominantly of algal grains and skeletal debris (calcarenite).     

U.S. Minerals Management Service (MMS) Prelease Geological and Geophysical (G & G) Data Acquisition: A 20-Year Retrospective, 1976-1996

Since 1976, the Minerals Management Service (MMS) has administered its prelease geological and geophysical (G & G) data acquisition program through Title 30, Part 251, of the Code of Federal Regulations, which govern permitting, acquisitions, and data release. Leading indicators of offshore oil and gas activity are the number of permits issued to industry, associated mileage, and expenditures. Over the last 20 years, permit activity has indicated that most of the oil and gas surveying has been in the Gulf of Mexico, where 80 % of all permits have been issued, followed by Alaska (10 %), the Pacific (7 %), and the Atlantic (3 %). These statistics correlate with the dominant position of the central and western Gulf of Mexico areas in oil and gas activity. More than 95 % of all permits were issued for geophysical exploration, mostly for two-dimensional (2-D) common-depth-point (CDP) seismic data. However, over the last 10 years, permits for three-dimensional (3-D) seismic data have averaged 25 % of all geophysical permits and, by 1996, made up approximately half of all geophysical permits offshore-wide. Between 1976 and the early 1990s, industry shot approximately 500,000 linemiles of 2-D CDP data each year on the Outer Continental Shelf (OCS). Of that total, MMS acquired approximately50,000 line-miles annually. In the 1990s, parallel with industry, MMS increased its acquisition of 3-D seismic data in concert with the development and use of interactive workstations. The majority of 2-D and 3-D data have been acquired in the Gulf of Mexico by a ratio of 2:1 over Alaska, the next largest data inventory. With regard to MMS expenditures for G & G data, from 1976 through the 1980s, Alaska, having more offshore area than the other three regions combined, had the largest portion. However, in the 1900s, the vast majority of expenditures have been in the Gulf of Mexico. Over the years, permit totals, mileage acquired, and expenditures for data reflect trends of oil and gas pricing, limitations of offshore moratoria, and a shift of industry emphasis to foreign theaters.     

Latest Pleistocene to Holocene changes in glaciomarine sedimentation in Scoresby Sund and along the adjacent East Greenland Continental Margin: Preliminary results

Based on preliminary results of sedimentological and organic geochemical investigations, distinct changes in the composition of siliciclastic and biogenic components occured in sediments from the East Greenland Continental Slope and Shelf and Scoresby Sund during the latest Pleistocene to Holocene times. These changes probably reflect the (? early/) late Weichselian glacial to Holocene interglacial transition, i.e., the decay of continental ice masses and sea-ice cover, causing major changes in supply of terrigenous matter and surface-water productivity. Flux rates of coarse-grained ice-rafted debris (IRD) distinctly decreased on the continental slope/shelf during the deglaciation interval. During the last 10,000 years, major amounts of IRD were trapped in the Scoresby Sund system. In comparison to modern interglacial conditions, surface-water productivity was significantly lower during the last glacial.     

Australian maritime boundaries: the Australian Antarctic Territory

Australia will include the Australian Antarctic Territory in its November 2004 submission to the Commission on the Limits of the Continental Shelf. It is the first Claimant State to attempt delimitation of an extended continental shelf zone there. This paper investigates the complexity of Australia's Antarctic maritime boundaries from political, legal and practical perspectives that have hitherto been purely hypothetical. It concludes that the practical component is achievable, though complex, and will serve as a precedent for other Antarctic Claimant States. Irrespective of whether or not the submission succeeds, it will serve as a valuable lesson, legally and politically.     

Shoreface morphodynamics on wave-dominated coasts

An open ocean shoreface typical of long, wave-dominated sandy coasts has been examined through a combination of extensive field measurements of wave and current patterns with computations of marine bedload transport and sedimentation. Sand transport on the upper shoreface is dominantly controlled by waves with only secondary transport by currents. Sand on the middle and lower shoreface, as well as the inner continental shelf is entrained by storm waves and transported by a complex pattern of bottom boundary layer currents.

Storm events have been studied and modeled for the shoreface off Tiana Beach, Long Island. The dominant effect of coastal frontal storms is to cause significant shore-parallel bedload transport with important shore-normal secondary components. These storms tend to result in net offshore transport of sand removed from the beach and surf zone systems. The bedload transport during a storm is convergent on the shoreface leading to accretion. Most accretion occurs on the upper shoreface with lesser deposits covering the middle and lower shoreface as well as the inner continental shelf. Longer-term equilibrium can be maintained by slow return of sand up the shoreface during non-storm conditions.

Annual and geologic time-scale budgets of shoreface sand transport and sedimentation yield equilibrium, net accretion or net deposition. The annual balance results from an integration of the event-scale bedload transport patterns and morphologic responses. These processes and responses have feedback mechanisms which stabilize the system over longer, but not geologic, time scales. Geologic time scale balances are controlled by relative sea level changes and relative availability of sediment supply with the event-scale shoreface and transporting processes providing the mechanism to produce the changes in long-term morphology and sedimentation patterns. In the area of study, the long-term pattern is one of net shoreface erosion, and the permanent loss of sand to the shelf floor.     

Time and density-dependent properties of fluid mud suspensions,NE brazilian continental shelf

Fluid mud suspensions, defined as containing between 10 to 480 g/liter, occur in numerous estuarine and nearshore continental shelf environments. The quantities of sediment incorporated in fluid mud are enormous, and they must be considered to be of major importance in the transport and deposition of fine-grained sediment in these environments.This study was performed on the NE Brazilian Continental Shelf, a muddy coastline that reaches from the Amazon to the Orinoco, a distance of 1600 km. The fluid mud forms a thick (3 to 5 m) boundary layer that extends 100-km offshore and generally coincides with the 10-m depth contour.The fluid muds appear well-adjusted to the current regime on the NE Brazilian continental shelf. Near-bottom current velocities were seldom greater than 50 cm/sec during the sampling interval. Consequently, yield stress in fluid muds of 1.20 × 10³ kg/m³ and greater was seldom exceeded, and consolidation proceeded without interruption.     

海平面变化及其海岸响应

第四纪气温的大幅度冷暖变化，导致全球海平面的变化，引起陆架海侵扣海退。海岸上的各种地貌如海滩、沙坝、三角洲扣陆架沙脊等响应海平面升降而发生新的演化扣变异。东海陆架古岸线、围绕古岸线发育的陆架沙脊、陆架深切河谷扣河谷充填沉积以及冰后期海进型扣海退型沙坝的形成乖演化等沉积事件都是响应海平面升降的结果。近百年来特别是近30年全球海平面普遍上升，引起风暴潮的频度扣幅度的增大。近岸波能增强，越滩浪增多，导致海滩侵蚀，岸线后退。Bruun法则扣其他一些模型能够说明海滩随海平面上升而蚀退的规律，但在预测速率时仍存在很多问题。使用时应注意海平面变化的区域性、海滩发育的滞后性和海滩蚀退因素间的权重关系。     

Marine Sand Resources Offshore Israel

Abstract

The continental margin of northern Sinai and Israel, up to Haifa Bay, is the northeastern limb of the submarine Nile Delta Cone. It is made up predominantly of clastics from the Nile and its predecessors. The continental shelf and coastal plain of Israel are built of a series of shore-parallel ridges composed of carbonate-cemented quartz sandstone (locally named kurkar), a lithification product of windblown sands that were piled up into dunes during the Pleistocene. The drop in global sea level and regression during the last glacial period exposed the continental shelf to subaerial erosion and created a widespread regional erosional unconformity which is expressed as a prominent seismic reflector at the top of the kurkar layers. The subsequent Holocene transgression abraded much of the westernmost kurkar ridges, drowned their cores, and covered the previous lowstand deposits with marine sands, which were in turn covered by a sequence of sub-Recent clayey silts.

The Mediterranean coasts of Sinai and Israel are part of the Nile littoral cell. Since the building of the Aswan dams the sand supplied to Israel's coastal system is derived mainly from erosion of the Nile Delta and from sands offshore Egypt that are stirred up by storm waves. The sands are transported by longshore and offshore currents along the coasts of northern Sinai and Israel. Their volume gradually declines northward with distance from their Nile source. The longshore transport terminates in Haifa Bay where some sand is trapped, and the test escapes to deeper water by bottom currents and through submarine canyons, thus denying Nile-derived sand supply to the 40-km-long Akko-Rosh Haniqra shelf.

The sand balance along Israel's coastal zone is a product of natural processes and human intervention. Losses due to the outgoing longshore transport, seaward escape, and landward wind transport exceed the natural gains from the incoming longshore transport and the abrasion of the coastal cliffs. The deficit is aggravated by the construction of (1) seaward-projecting structures that trap sands on the upstream side and (2) offshore detached breakwaters that trap sands between themselves and the coast. The negative sand balance is manifested by the removal of sand from the seabed and the consequent exposure of archaeological remains that were hitherto protected by it.

The sediments that escape seaward from the longshore transport system form a 2.5- to 4-km-wide sandy apron adjacent to the shore that extends to where the water is 30–40 m deep. The apron's slope (0.5–0.8°) is steeper than the theoretical equilibrium slope for the median grain-size diameter in this zone (0.1–0.3 mm).

The beach sands and the apron's surficial sands are well sorted. Their grain size decreases with distance from shore, from 0.2–0.3 mm nearshore to 0.11–0.16 mm by the drowned ridge. The coarse-grained fraction consists of skeletal debris (commonly 5–12% carbonate matter) and wave-milled kurkar grains (locally named zifzif). In deeper water, the basal sands underlying the fine-grained sediment cover consist of 1- to 30-cm layers whose composition ranges from silty sands to various types of sands (fine, medium, coarse, and gravelly) to zifzif. For the most part, they contain large amounts of skeletal debris (20–60%) and small fragments of kurkar.

Two types of kurkar rock were encountered offshore: a well-sorted, fine- to medium-grained (0.074–0.300 mm) lithified dune sand with variable amounts of carbonate cement, ranging from hard rock of low permeability to loose sand; and a porous sandstone made up predominantly of algal grains and skeletal debris (calcarenite).     

斯里兰卡南部海域次重力波特征研究

次重力波在近岸水动力运动过程中起到重要作用,深入地了解次重力波对预防其引发的近岸灾害有着重要意义。结合波浪现场观测方法和数值模拟方法研究了斯里兰卡南部海域次重力波特征。短波和自由次重力波通过海浪谱模型WAVEWATCH III模拟,而约束次重力波通过二阶非线性理论模拟,数值模拟结果与现场观测结果对比吻合良好。研究结果表明,斯里兰卡南部海域大部分时间以自由次重力波为主;在强涌浪海况下（短波波高大于2.5 m,周期大于15 s）约束次重力波逐渐逼近自由次重力波甚至占主导地位;斯里兰卡大陆架极其狭窄,对涌浪的能量损耗作用极为有限,使得近岸面对强劲的涌浪及其伴生的次重力波的侵袭,增大了次重力波引发近岸水动力灾害的风险。     

东海中陆架泥质区及其周边表层沉积物碳的分布与固碳能力的研究

对东海中陆架泥质区及其周边的表层沉积物分别利用容量法、元素分析仪法进行了ＩＣ、ＯＣ含量分析,利用筛析法和沉降法进行了粒度分析。结果表明,研究区ＩＣ含量均明显高于ＯＣ含量。ＯＣ含量在泥质区高,砂质区低;ＩＣ含量分布为：近岸细粒沉积区为相对高值区,中陆架砂质区为低值区,中陆架泥质区为高值区,外陆架砂质区为特高值区．ＯＣ富集主要受控于上覆水体的生物生产量、沉积动力环境以及海底物理化学条件。ＩＣ的分布受物